Ricoh (Post Yours) Ricoh GR Hi-contrast B&W

Wow. I really like these. I’ll definitely have to try this with my GRiiix.
Don't forget how malleable the profile is. That last IIIx file was quite a bit different from my usual GR hi-contrast look, but it's just one among many you can come up with changing the settings. The first ones I posted to this thread were with the color filter adjusted to be more sensitive to blue, as I was aiming for a Fomapan 100 look, I think I actually got it pretty close.
 
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Interesting, Hi Contrast B&W on the GR3X seems to render like Hard B&W on the GR3.
Actually I would say most of the resemblance you see is the way I tweaked the profile. I turn down contrast typically, because the profile is already so contrasty, and pick a color filter to suit the subject, so certain elements like the sky are affected in a way that probably comes close to what the engine does in hard B&W.

Also, I move away from big, blocked out shadows because I don't care as much for them. I try to make hi-contrast B&W look as much like the film that I develop myself as possible. So I have the shadow recovery/compensation set to high, and the overall profile set to +3 high key, other adjustments as needed. That way the shadows have definition usually, and as long as I slightly underexpose the image, I can still get bright elements without being pure white. I'm essentially kind of toning down the profile a little bit.
 
Actually I would say most of the resemblance you see is the way I tweaked the profile. I turn down contrast typically, because the profile is already so contrasty, and pick a color filter to suit the subject, so certain elements like the sky are affected in a way that probably comes close to what the engine does in hard B&W.

Also, I move away from big, blocked out shadows because I don't care as much for them. I try to make hi-contrast B&W look as much like the film that I develop myself as possible. So I have the shadow recovery/compensation set to high, and the overall profile set to +3 high key, other adjustments as needed. That way the shadows have definition usually, and as long as I slightly underexpose the image, I can still get bright elements without being pure white. I'm essentially kind of toning down the profile a little bit.
I find it only to be used in certain circumstances which I find to be when there’s extreme daylight and in the middle of the night where there’s high light sources somewhere in the vicinity. But when those circumstances successfully collide, you’re into the “can’t be replicated in Photoshop” territory. For some reason, which I think is down to the sensor, the High B&W results from the earlier GR/GRII cameras were imho even more impressive.
 
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