Put a 3 stop on this weekend so I could shoot wide open with the 35mm in the bright SoCal sun.
The HUD in the OVF ramps up and down on it's own.
However it was so dim I could not make out exposure comp.
Then I realized it was setting the HUD brightness based on the sensor with a 3 stop...
I want a mulligan on my question.
Keep in mind I am coming from m43 so having a DOF so shallow that focusing was difficult was not an issue.
I'm thinking that shooting a f/1.4 at distance is not the issue, shorter distances is what makes it more difficult.
Do you ever think that you are so...
Find a target not too far away so you can easily see it's in focus. I used a heavy towel about 6' away.
Switch to Continuous AF.
Set Aperture to wide open.
Listen to the lens, it's adjusting focus non-stop to compensate for your slight hand held movements.
Now set Aperture to f/16...
Saw a scoop.it post that said the brightness of the EVF and OVF can be set independently using QMenu / "LCD brightness".
What I am seeing is LCD Brightness can be set independently for the EVF and LCD. If you have your eye to the viewfinder, "LCD brightness" adjusts the EVF.
However it does...
These were Provia/standard which is lower contrast than say Velvia.
Velvia would be a good choice for straight OOC, no PP.
Provia/standard being lower contrast gives more wiggle room with DR. Probably a better choice for RAW / PP, which is what I am used to.
Thx 4 looking.
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY
Feel free to ask questions, just try to make sure they are not already covered here, thx.
X-Pro1 settings: Provia/standard, jpeg, all settings at 0
Lightroom 4: Exported as long edge 1000px, jpeg quality 88
Straight OOC. If there is any LR4 PP I will note it...
I'm not one for carrying toasters and telescopes around which is what drew me to M43 in the first place, it's small size.
When considering the X-Pro1 I had to determine how much of a size/weight penalty I was willing to take over my GH2. Turns out, there really isn't any.
The 12mm(24mm) is a really nice lens, wide but not so wide you get the funky distortions (unless you like that). Plus it has that back to the future focus ring that slides back to show you DOF for zone focusing.
What I am seeing IQ wise vs my GH2 is no more purple fringing, better gradients, more of that 3D pop and isolation and less noise even at low ISO.
It always bugged me that I would see noise in a clear sky on the GH2 even at ISO 160.
I can't see any on the X-Pro1 at ISO 200. I even...
Now that I have a few things figured out, time to shoot
Outside the feed store is an old wagon filled with flowers
Left the feed store and stopped by the SkyDiving Capitol of the World
Not great light, blazing sun almost straight up
Aperture priority, ISO 200, some provia, some...
Just did a test, X-Pro1 and GH2, to see how they behaved.
Panny 20mm, f/1.7
Focus area is as large as the X-Pro goes, EVF. Made the GH2 focus area the same size.
Lens are about 18" from the wood, 7' from the gravel.
I slowly moved the focus area from the wood to the gravel and...
Yeah, AF area was completely inside the body, single point, small, EVF.
Let's try this so I can wrap my brain around it.
Let's say the AF area is completely accurate.
90% of what's inside the AF area has little contrast. 10% has lots of contrast.
A typical CDAF is going to lock on the...
I am coming from a GH2 which is fast and furious with it's AF. I have caught a single bee in flight with it and the Oly 45mm wide open, no problem.
I understand the X-Pro1 has a shallower DOF so it's a more difficult challenge, both for it and me.
But I also see times...