OEM5-P5041176-PR Olympus OM-D E-M5 Brisbane Australia by Nic (Luckypenguin), on Flickr
OEM5-P5031166-PR Olympus OM-D E-M5 Brisbane Australia by Nic (Luckypenguin), on Flickr
These usually fail to translate within the confines of a webpage, but anyhow this is stitched together from four images
SNX300-04190035-38-PR Samsung NX300 Glasshouse Mountains Australia by Nic (Luckypenguin), on Flickr
OEP5-PC290313-PR Olympus Pen E-P5 Brisbane Australia by Nic (Luckypenguin), on Flickr
OEP5-PC290318-PR Olympus Pen E-P5 Brisbane Australia by Nic (Luckypenguin), on Flickr
What an amazing landscape. My favourite is the wide-format image with the moon in it.
As an aside, does anyone else find that images posted using the new embedded flickr image codes take an age to load?
Left it a bit too late in the day to take her out for a walk, so the aperture was wider than I really wanted, the ISO at 1600, but we still got some shots worth keeping.
OEM5-PA070595-PR Olympus OM-D E-M5 Brisbane Australia by Nic (Luckypenguin), on Flickr
OEM5-PA070594-PR Olympus...
For a time I did like adding noise ("grain") to images through the use of various film simulations, but I think at one point I decided that I was wasting the capabilities of these modern digital sensors somewhat by making them look all lo-fi.
In this example here however I think that noise...
CG1X-IMG_1216-PR Canon Powershot G1X Redcliffe Australia by Nic (Luckypenguin), on Flickr
CG1X-IMG_1217-PR Canon Powershot G1X Redcliffe Australia by Nic (Luckypenguin), on Flickr
CG1X-IMG_1225-PR Canon Powershot G1X Redcliffe Australia by Nic (Luckypenguin), on Flickr...
Not necessarily. Any larger sensor CSC (Sony NEX, Samsung NX, Ricoh GXR, Micro 4/3) has the capability to achieve the same shallow depth-of-field as a DSLR, assuming the system has the range of lenses available to give you that look of course.
It has an almost painted look to it. Of course one of the coolest things about the larger sensors CSCs is that you no longer even need a big DSLR to do it.
Hey Jason, thanks for the info. It sounds like the similar issue I had with my GH1 compared to the E-P1, only in reverse. As you say the E-P1 LCD is remarkably accurate for colour, but the GH1 screen shows colours that are more saturated than is actually the case. The E-PL1 on the other hand...
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