Fuji 2013 New Camera Forecast by Nippon Camera Monthly

I'm still a little perplexed how a digital split image aids manual focusing. From the videos, it seems like as the split images meet, the entire image comes and looks "in focus". So how does that differ from just verifying with our own eyes that the images are indeed "in focus" as it transitions from blurry to "in focus" (without the split image aid)?
 
The devil will be in the details. Let's hope it works well.

As I remember from shooting manual-focus split image cameras (some of my dad's), it was often tough to tell if the subject was optimally in focus with just your eyes. So, the top and bottom half of the center coming together in some way (it was more of a *phase* thing, the two halves looked different until the subject was in focus) was a nice indicator that you had the focus for your subject. Then you'd reframe and take the shot.

I've had the same kinds of issues with manual focus on digitals. Do you have the focus on the eyes nailed, or when you get back and edit, is it slightly off? ("Dang!") A quick "digital zoom" can help with that, but it disrupts getting the context right, and often the digital zoom isn't the power you'd want. Focus-peaking is a bit better, but something is either sparkling or black-dotting around in your preview.

In the split-image approach, the two images come together for the subject in the center. Then the distractions are gone, and you can verify the focus with your eyes.

Sounds a lot like the manual focus shooting experience from long ago, and a bit like on the modern range-finders.
 
I'm still a little perplexed how a digital split image aids manual focusing. From the videos, it seems like as the split images meet, the entire image comes and looks "in focus". So how does that differ from just verifying with our own eyes that the images are indeed "in focus" as it transitions from blurry to "in focus" (without the split image aid)?

Without the split image I learned to use on film SLRs, I always feel like I have to go past "in focus" and then work my way back, and forth some more, until I find a middle point that seems like ideal sharpness. It's a measure of how little trust I have in my ability to get it right without going a step too far and bringing it back. Do the same thing with binoculars too. With the split image visible in the viewfinder, as soon as the vertical lines touch, focusing is done. I really look forward to getting that visual helper back because I learned how to trust it.
 
On my rangefinder, I bring what is in essence two images into one. But the image is in focus no matter what through the viewfinder. With the X100S, I just don't see much advantage having a split image as seen in this video, because the split images are out of focus to begin with, and they slowly getting in focus just as the image would normally get in focus even without the split.

[video=youtube_share;_fJDX1hzUIg]

Maybe it would have been more helpful if the center square was also tiered or split into two. As two rectangles came together into a square, the image is in focus. I guess I'll just have to wait and see.
 
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