Film Showcase Kentmere 400

Bobitybob

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Bob
A Few with this (HARMAN/Ilford) budget film.

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Leica 0 Series Replica, R09 Stand developed 1:100 for 60 minutes

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Leica M6, Voigtlander 1:1.4/40, developed with R09 as per HP5

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Leica M6, Leica Tri-Elmar M 1:4/28-35-50 MATE, developed with R09 as per HP5
 
The film seems to love plenty of light - that's interesting to know; it doesn't like being underexposed so much, though - HP5+ is more forgiving. But the Kentmere *can* pop ... and it's reasonably priced. I'll have to try it out in the summer ...

M.
 
The film seems to love plenty of light - that's interesting to know; it doesn't like being underexposed so much, though - HP5+ is more forgiving. But the Kentmere *can* pop ... and it's reasonably priced. I'll have to try it out in the summer ...

It could be my PP too. I agree it's cheap and readily available here in Canada. I will try it again but with a better camera.
 
Nice - good catch on the sky. You might be interested in trying a fillter? say orange or Yellow-Green

Thanks! Yes I might try a filter at some point if I can find one at a decent price. However, after looking at a number of shots from this roll, I am not sure I like Kenmere 400, too much grain for my liking.
 
A trial run with Tmax developer 1+4. Not bad. I also shot this at 320 ISO and developed normally. Still not getting the crispness I want from this film, but that could partly be my scanning and PP efforts not being dialed in. Could also be my focusing. These were shot with the Pentax HD FA 35mm f2 lens, which I just bid farewell to. Not bad but definitely not that exciting to focus manually, with the extremely short throw from 2 meters to infinity.

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A trial run with Tmax developer 1+4. Not bad. I also shot this at 320 ISO and developed normally. Still not getting the crispness I want from this film, but that could partly be my scanning and PP efforts not being dialed in. Could also be my focusing. These were shot with the Pentax HD FA 35mm f2 lens, which I just bid farewell to. Not bad but definitely not that exciting to focus manually, with the extremely short throw from 2 meters to infinity.

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Hello agentlossing@. I have some experience with this film. Kentmere Pan 400 (or Agfa Photo 400 - the new one) develops very well in developer ID-68, 1+1 (Microphen type). This developer shows detail in the shadows brilliantly, in addition to slightly increasing the film speed (you can expose this film at 400 ASA). You can buy ready-made Microphen, but I like to make the developer myself from basic ingredients. If you want to try it, I can send you the recipe for ID-68.
 
Hello agentlossing@. I have some experience with this film. Kentmere Pan 400 (or Agfa Photo 400 - the new one) develops very well in developer ID-68, 1+1 (Microphen type). This developer shows detail in the shadows brilliantly, in addition to slightly increasing the film speed (you can expose this film at 400 ASA). You can buy ready-made Microphen, but I like to make the developer myself from basic ingredients. If you want to try it, I can send you the recipe for ID-68.
Thanks for the info! Is this basically Microphen? I see that developer is available pretty inexpensively for the powder form on B&H here in the States.
 
Thanks for the info! Is this basically Microphen? I see that developer is available pretty inexpensively for the powder form on B&H here in the States.
ID68 is assumed to be equivalent to Microphene. I used a 1:1 dilution for Kentmere 400 ASA film and had good results. I think this developer should offer a greater tonal scale and overall image dynamic range. I don't use the original Microphen because I VERY much like to assemble the developer myself from simple chemical reagents. I have a trusted supplier of pure reagents of consistent quality, I keep a strict eye on the recipe, so I know that my developer is exactly as described in the literature. This kind of work makes a difference to my mental comfort :)

You probably know this, but just in case, I will write that after dissolving the developer powder in water, I wait one day for the solution to 'mature'. Also I only use it the next day.
 
ID68 is assumed to be equivalent to Microphene. I used a 1:1 dilution for Kentmere 400 ASA film and had good results. I think this developer should offer a greater tonal scale and overall image dynamic range. I don't use the original Microphen because I VERY much like to assemble the developer myself from simple chemical reagents. I have a trusted supplier of pure reagents of consistent quality, I keep a strict eye on the recipe, so I know that my developer is exactly as described in the literature. This kind of work makes a difference to my mental comfort :)

You probably know this, but just in case, I will write that after dissolving the developer powder in water, I wait one day for the solution to 'mature'. Also I only use it the next day.
That's cool, the DIY nature of mixing up chemicals from scratch is appealing, although I suspect I wouldn't find enough time for it.
 
1st roll box speed, lab dunked & scanned. Not bad, got to buy a couple of more rolls and get used to it. Shot with my Nikon F4 and my 28-105/3.5-4.5

If I do stick with getting more into film, I need a scanning solution at home though.

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I have some experience with this film. Kentmere Pan 400 (or Agfa Photo 400 - the new one) develops very well in developer ID-68, 1+1 (Microphen type). This developer shows detail in the shadows brilliantly, in addition to slightly increasing the film speed (you can expose this film at 400 ASA).
Say I wanted to shoot K400 throughout the day, overexpose it during daytime, expose it at box speed in the afternoon and underexpose by one stop during night. Could I get away with it developing the film in ID68?
 
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