I’m not dismissing it. I stated that I could not recreate it. That I have not noticed it any point in my time shooting Fuji. And that if there are steps required to follow, it’s not a problem with the gear. If someone takes that personally instead of scientifically as data points then they need to re think their approach to troubleshooting. There are going to be people who don’t have this problem and can’t recreate it.Come on, folks!
This is becoming like the "discussions" where some E-M1 MkI owners dismissed the documented problems with that body. Some were fortunate enough not to have any problems. I had the
strap lugrear wheel problem. My brother had two different bodies with the strap lug problem, and the third eventually developed the bad rear wheel problem.
However, some people had neither problem, and some went into vociferous denial mode about both (DPReview ... ).
No need for any of that behaviour. Please.
Please keep us informed!!!I had random problems with my X-H2S and contacted Fujifilm UK. I sent them some raw images and they agreed that the images were soft and noisy and asked me to send it in. Received it back with a new circuit board (sensor) and front panel so I need to get out and test to see if there's any improvement. Fingers crossed.
I guess if nothing else, it kinda suggests the focus distance indicator doesn’t work. I know some cameras will calculate the distance and put it in the EXIF, but not all manufacturers do it.H'mmm.
I did some testing this afternoon.
10 exposures each for:
For zoom lenses:
- Wide open
- Mid range
- Completed stopped down.
The focus distance indicator was all over the map for the X-T2, X-Pro2 and X100f.
- Widest zoom
- Mid range
- Farthest zoom
Yet, bringing them into Capture One, the focus mask indicator is in exactly the same position, at least for the first set I've processed for the X-T2.
Here is an example:
View attachment 401255
Every shot I look at has the splotch on the bucket, which was my focus point.
I've got the X-Pro2 files importing now, and will do the X100f files tomorrow.
I'm sorry but that image looks unacceptably OOF to me. My guess is that camera actually focused well beyond the subject distance.I guess if nothing else, it kinda suggests the focus distance indicator doesn’t work. I know some cameras will calculate the distance and put it in the EXIF, but not all manufacturers do it.
Easy enough to test accuracy. Enable distance indicator (set DOF at "pixel level"), select MF then dial focus ring until the white line is on the distance your subject is actually at. Turn off shutter AF and take a pic and it will be in focus unless you're a Klutz.I guess if nothing else, it kinda suggests the focus distance indicator doesn’t work. I know some cameras will calculate the distance and put it in the EXIF, but not all manufacturers do it.
For reference, can you tell us what your autofocus settings were?I finally had the chance to get out with the X-H2S with new sensor and front panel. A ladies football match. I have to say that I'm scratching my head with this. I have a number of image sequences where the first image is in focus and the subsequent ones aren't. Here's an example. The second image hasn't kept track of the subject at all despite being shot in a single burst of 5 images with good follow on my part.
View attachment 401443View attachment 401444
It’s both experimenting to see which, if any af-c works best. As well as a process of elimination. I suggested setting 2 partly because of the background in this shot. People in dark clothes with bright white cars. That heavy contrast is easy for the autofocus to lock onto. It’s not supposed to do that, but it happens.I'll try anything at the moment Bobby thanks. However I still can't understand how consecutive frames can be so different from each other.
Please try AF-S with a wide angle lens (<27mm) @ f5.6 using the distance scale with DOF set at "pixel" for reference. Choose a subject at a known distance, say 15ft. See if the distance marker (white line) chooses correct subject distance consistently with repeated presses of AF-ON button or shutter (whichever you use).I tried "2" last night, together with 3 different lenses, 50-140, 55-200 and 80mm prime.
50-140 gave same results as previous. 55-200 gave slightly softer better images but less variation in oof sequences. 80mm showed no discernible differences. Still no wiser . I asked my friend to take some images on his Sony A1 on the same memory card for comparison. Much better sharper images but his worse shots were comparable to mine. I have another attempt next Monday where I'll try something different. It's getting like a serial isn't it? Stay tuned!