Fuji Bad copy, or just me?

battleaxe

Regular
Location
California
I had a Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm F3.5 in a Minolta mount on my m4/3 camera(G2, which I don't own anymore), but the lens broke, and I got another camera system instead(beside the point). Today I got essentially the same lens in a Nikon mount to use on my X-E1. Physically, it's a nicer lens, and I think the glass is cleaner too, however focus is a bit harder(possible due to the larger sensor?), and IQ is meh. On my G2 the combo was really good(imho), part of why I got another one. I will do more testing and such, but could the issues I noticed on my initial test be due to the large APS-C sensor of the X-E1, a bad copy, or something else? Thank you.
 
A couple of thoughts, but can you post an example? "IQ is meh" is not a technical term ;-)

Thought 1. What adaptor are you using? Have you any other AIS lenses to test it with? Equally can you try the lens on another body?

Thought 2. What focusing process are you using?

The larger sensor will make a difference only in that you are using more of the available image circle; however - and it is a big however - this lens is designed for film ("full-frame") use and you are still well within it's "sweet spot" with an APS-C sensor.

One last random thought. Some of the later Series One lenses had built-in red and green filters for 3-D photography. There was a selector switch on the lens barrel. Humour me... Just look down the lens throat...
 
I don't at the moment as I was doing test shots. I plan to test it out a bit more before making final judgment. It doesn't look to be the 3D variant. As for adapter I am using a Fotodiox adapter.
 
If I remember correctly this lens was made by a few different manufacturers and had a couple of different variants over its lifespan and I have heard that there can be sizeable difference in IQ based on where the lens was manufactured. There is a website that outlines the differences between them. Unfortunately I am not near a computer with all of my bookmarks or I would include it! A quick Google search should pull it up pretty quick though.

I currently have the MD mount and have been pleased with my results with it on a Sony body...
 
So. You need to test and eliminate each link in the optical chain. Assuming your technique is sound, you need to swop out camera, adaptor and lens in turn until you establish which is the weakest link.

I'd still like to see an example of "meh" to aid diagnosis.
 
I've got a Vivitar S1 70-210/3.5 in Nikon mount and it works great on my Fuji. Cropped pretty tight.

14743879012_c23a8c3d7d_b.jpg
 
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