Film Does it matter where BW is developed?

Cerita

Veteran
Location
Canada
I am now down to 5 more shots of my first ever roll in 30+ years, I am excited to see what I get but mildly terrified too. On the one hand I want to just drop off the roll at one of the last consumer photo shops in town that develops film, and on the other I want to drop it off at one of the last pro places in town, I am leaning towards the pro place. However, does it matter where one drops off for BW developing?
 

480sparky

Regular
Real Name
Ken
If you want cookie-cutter developing, then drop it off anywhere. The 'pro place' will probably replace exhausted chemicals when they should be while the low-price leaders may not.

But given there's a near infinite different ways to actually develop b&w film, you'll get far better results if you do it yourself.
 

Cerita

Veteran
Location
Canada
If you want cookie-cutter developing, then drop it off anywhere. The 'pro place' will probably replace exhausted chemicals when they should be while the low-price leaders may not.

But given there's a near infinite different ways to actually develop b&w film, you'll get far better results if you do it yourself.

Yes, eventually I will do my own development (I can see my husband cringing LOL), I have been looking into it and I also love having the control over that process. For this roll, I will take it to the Pro shop, they are well known and well respected among the local photographers.
 

Cerita

Veteran
Location
Canada
Ok, I am a idiot LOL! So this roll of BW I am speaking of is Arista Edu 100, and the camera I am using the Minolta Dynax 404si, but I had not idea I had to set the film speed as Arista is not DX coded :(, so the whole roll was shot as what I guess the camera defaults to which is 400. Ha! Ha! Ha! I guess I have got a very undersposed (or overexposed? not sure what happens) roll. Not sure if I should scrap it or take it the lab, any advice? I am not disappointed just feel like a bit of an idiot, and no where does it say on the box or maybe I am just supposed to know :)
 
Don't feel too bad, it's not like you're the first person to do this! Tell the lab that you think you underexposed the film by 2 stops. They should be able to help you out. Some people do this on purpose, it's called "pushing" the film.
 

Cerita

Veteran
Location
Canada
Don't feel too bad, it's not like you're the first person to do this! Tell the lab that you think you underexposed the film by 2 stops. They should be able to help you out. Some people do this on purpose, it's called "pushing" the film.

Thank you so much! So, I am right, it's now underexposed? I will tell the lab, and let's hope they can develop for "+ 2 pushed" film. Thanks again! Mostly these cheap Minolta auto cameras read the film speed as I believe there is that code on the cartridge, so I just assumed LOL. Anyhow, live and learn. Thanks again.
 

Jim

Regular
Real Name
James Olivari
As an expert in dumb moves, I will say that you're in good company. The suggestion about a pro lab is a good one; they should be able to compensate for a 2-stop push. Developing film yourself gives you a great deal of control over these issues. It's not too hard, just pick a developer (HC110 might be a good one to start, because it lasts so long.) Bookmark "the Massive Development Chart" - it will have times for various films and various developers. It also have a handy temperature conversion chart if you can't get your processing done at exactly 20C.

For you husband, tell him that developing yourself costs about half or so what a lab charges, so you're being thrifty!
 

Cerita

Veteran
Location
Canada
As an expert in dumb moves, I will say that you're in good company. The suggestion about a pro lab is a good one; they should be able to compensate for a 2-stop push. Developing film yourself gives you a great deal of control over these issues. It's not too hard, just pick a developer (HC110 might be a good one to start, because it lasts so long.) Bookmark "the Massive Development Chart" - it will have times for various films and various developers. It also have a handy temperature conversion chart if you can't get your processing done at exactly 20C.

For you husband, tell him that developing yourself costs about half or so what a lab charges, so you're being thrifty!

Thank you so much! I will take it in and share the results on the forum. The reason my husband will cringe is I have a number of hobbies, I am machine knitter, I sew my own clothes, I weave and embroider too! Hey, I keep busy in my life and I am never bored! Photography is special though, and I have always loved it since I was a child, especially BW photographs as they just draw me in. I am fortunate to work in a University that has a lovely Archivist who allows me to view BWs photographs from far back as 1902 and before, and sometimes when she has time, I even get to view the deguerrotypes!! Now this is a treat! :).
 
I am now down to 5 more shots of my first ever roll in 30+ years, I am excited to see what I get but mildly terrified too. On the one hand I want to just drop off the roll at one of the last consumer photo shops in town that develops film, and on the other I want to drop it off at one of the last pro places in town, I am leaning towards the pro place. However, does it matter where one drops off for BW developing?
By and large, I would say, no. B&W development is so easy that most camera shops have access to labs that will do a good job. They normally have to send it away as hour print shops only have access to colour development facilities at which they can process C41 film but pure B&W has to be processed with B&W chemicals, but, why not do it yourself? If you can make a decent cup of coffee you will certainly be able to soup a film, and the personal satisfaction that processing gives you is worth every penny it costs.
 

derelict

Rookie
I have outside labs do all of my developing. For B&W, I send it off to the Darkroom Lab. For color, I have a local camera shop who does C41 every two days. Just tell them to push the film 2 stops. Arista, in my experience, does not push too well so youll get heavy grain and more contrast. Should still make for interesting shots.

I know that I could do it at home and probably save some money but I have elected not to. Why? Silver. A byproduct of developing film that I do not feel is proper to merely wash down the drain. Bigger labs will have a silver recovery/ filter system to reduce the amount of it that is flushed into the water supply. Home developing also wastes a TON of water whereas dedicated labs will have systems where the water will be used more efficiently due to batch sizes.
 
I have outside labs do all of my developing. For B&W, I send it off to the Darkroom Lab. For color, I have a local camera shop who does C41 every two days. Just tell them to push the film 2 stops. Arista, in my experience, does not push too well so youll get heavy grain and more contrast. Should still make for interesting shots.

I know that I could do it at home and probably save some money but I have elected not to. Why? Silver. A byproduct of developing film that I do not feel is proper to merely wash down the drain. Bigger labs will have a silver recovery/ filter system to reduce the amount of it that is flushed into the water supply. Home developing also wastes a TON of water whereas dedicated labs will have systems where the water will be used more efficiently due to batch sizes.
Fine
 

Cerita

Veteran
Location
Canada
Thanks. I am looking forward to the results, as you say, the shots might be interesting. I am now about to use another cheap film, Kentmere 100 but this time I made sure I have the ISO set properly LOL! Even though I noticed the Kentmere cartridge is coded. What is the best 100-200 BW film available these days?
 
Thanks. I am looking forward to the results, as you say, the shots might be interesting. I am now about to use another cheap film, Kentmere 100 but this time I made sure I have the ISO set properly LOL! Even though I noticed the Kentmere cartridge is coded. What is the best 100-200 BW film available these days?
I would say that FP4 125asa and HP5 400asa are as good as any, also Rollei Retro 100asa is good
 

480sparky

Regular
Real Name
Ken
............ What is the best 100-200 BW film available these days?

There is no such thing.

There's 'better' films than others, but they cost more. A Ferrari might be 'better' than a Kia, but if you can't afford a Ferrari, then it doesn't matter how good it is.
 

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