Film Simulations

[merlin]

Since I will be shooting jpegs at an indoor event, wondering which film sim would work best for group situations? The people are what I am focusing on, not the environment.

Thanks!

 

[Bobby T]

Set up a film simulation bracket with standard, Astia, and Acros.

 

[merlin]

Set up a film simulation bracket with standard, Astia, and Acros.

But that means each shot is three photographs!

 

[Bobby T]

Yes. And you have three film simulations to choose from instead of one. That's why the cameras have the bracketing feature. If you don't want to do that, shoot in raw, then edit in lightroom. You can apply the film simulations in post to see which one looks the best.

 

[merlin]

Thanks for your suggestions! I do not use LR, but IIRC Rawtherapee will do the same thing.

 

[Lightmancer]

I shoot raw+jpg, using the simulation setting thst I think most suits the subject, be that Astia, Chrome or Acros. I then use the in-camera raw converter to generate any different jpgs.

This works out as being most efficient for me. Mr. Pareto is my friend.

 

[rayvonn]

I've always wondered whether Fuji cameras need these film sims at all, the images coming out of a them are hardly bog standard.

 

[Lightmancer]

What do you mean, Ray? Hardly bog standard good, or hardly bog standard bad?

 

[rayvonn]

What do you mean, Ray? Hardly bog standard good, or hardly bog standard bad?

Ah right! Sorry, I meant either jpeg or raw, the images are great, so great that I honestly don't need these film simulations. I did briefly wonder whether to use that 'bog standard' phrase.

 

[Lightmancer]

I get it

 

[Bobby T]

I think the film sims are needed for jpg shooters to have several great options available to them.

 

[Lightmancer]

The film sims are a start point for me - bear in mind I always shoot raw+jpg.

My workflow is:

1. Think about what I am going to shoot on the day.
2. Set profile accordingly, including "film" choice for most appropriate outcome. E.g. Street = Acros. Autumn Country Fair = Chrome, etc
3. Shoot
4. Review
5. Change the few shots that don't work with the chosen film into something different
6. Relax and use the time saved to do something more interesting than slaving away over a third party raw processor

 

[merlin]

I completely agree re: time spent on pp. I would rather be out in nature, or involved in some other creative endeavor, than sitting in front of the computer.

For this particular shoot, I want to make it easy. So selecting a particular film sim that will work with the jpegs is part of that, so I can batch process all of the keepers.

 

[Bobby T]

I may be in a rare camp in that I enjoy the post process. Sit back with some beers, or beverage of choice, go through my work, and relax.

 

[tonyturley]

Same here. I'm always eager after a biking or hiking trip to get to the computer and see how things turned out.

 

[merlin]

I am always ready after returning from an outing to view the photographs, but I am not a pixel-peeper, nor someone who spends hours agonizing over details of a particular image.

 

[Bobby T]

I never pixel peep or over analyze my work. That would be a total fun suck. Taking all of the enjoyment out of it.

 

[tonyturley]

I am always ready after returning from an outing to view the photographs, but I am not a pixel-peeper, nor someone who spends hours agonizing over details of a particular image.

I never pixel peep or over analyze my work. That would be a total fun suck. Taking all of the enjoyment out of it.

Agree with both of you. I enjoy the PP process, but don't agonize over every little pixel. As Bobby said, it's just a fun way to relive the experiences and choose which images I think best represent what I saw.

 

[bs1946]

All of my lenses are manual. So I have my X-E2 set to RAW+FINE with B&W for the film simulation and red peaking. I find that a monochrome view in the EVF or LCD with red peaking makes focusing very easy and it also helps with composition when I'm not being distracted by colors. Then before I download anything, I use the in-camera RAW converter to get the jpegs I want. You can adjust most of the settings and try the different film simulations.

If you are concentrating on people than you may actually prefer Pro Neg STD or Pro Neg Hi over the slide simulations. But Astia is good for portraits and you can go for the old school look of classic chrome or for B&W Acros with no grain which is the way the actual Neopan Acros 100 renders.