Fuji Fuji x-e1 command dial, what is it for?

verysame

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Hi,

My first post here.
I recently just bought a used x-e1.
First thing I noticed, the command dial doesn't seem to do much.
I shoot manual and I'm used to the X-T10, so I was expecting the command dial to be used to change shutter speed or to be customized in order to change ISO. I can use it to check the focus when I press it, but dialing right and left doesn't do anything.
Is it possible to customize it? I'd like to assign either the shutter or ISO control.

I have looked for a possible answer and I guess the command dial on the X-E1 is only to operate some of the menu voices and to change lens aperture?

And now the bad news: after some tests, it turns out the camera renders hot pixels at high ISO
sad.png
 
First ...... Welcome to the forum
Here is what I found and I found it here MANUALS:camera | FUJIFILM X Series & GFX – Global
"The Command Dial
The command dial can be used to navi- gate the menus, to view pictures (P23), and to select options in the quick menu display (P 32).
Press the center of the command dial to zoom in on the focus area selected for manual focus (P43) or the active focus point during playback (P 24)."
 
Thank you, mikem13

That's the way I'm using it, then I think it's all it can do. At least now I know there's nothing wrong with the camera, except for the hot pixels.
Thanks for chiming in.
 
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Did you do a test to find the pixels or are they that obvious? If they are no that obvious in the photos then I wouldn't worry about them and just enjoy shooting.
 
Sorry, my knowledge is quite limited regarding hot pixels, is this something inherent with the camera's sensor similar to the orbs issue in the X10 and X100 in the past? or is this something a sensor develops overtime?
 
Did you do a test to find the pixels or are they that obvious? If they are no that obvious in the photos then I wouldn't worry about them and just enjoy shooting.

The hot pixels are obvious, I noticed them right away as the color really did pop in that area. In one image I counted about 20 hot pixels.
Today I cleaned the sensor with a simple rocket blower, I'm not sure if that can help. After a first test, it seems it got a little better, but it's early to say.

I didn't know what hot pixels were before this experience, I had never seen one and I have been using DSLRs and Mirrorless for years now.
After I googled it, it turns out it seems they are pretty common actually. Also, I didn't know ACR it's supposed to take care of the hot pixels automatically, although in some recent posts on Adobe forums apparently, the latest versions of both Lightroom and ACR don't always do this operation. I wonder if it's something really broken in the two software or if it's merely due to the presence of intense noise in the images of the people who complained about it.

Moreover, all Fuji cameras, except for the most recent flagships, don't have a hot pixel remapping tool (even though I'm not clear on how much the hot pixel remapping can do).

Anyway, I'll keep testing and if I find a solution I'll post it here, but it seems there isn't much to do really. It's either sending the camera to a repair center or keep it as is.
It would be interesting to find out how do they fix the hot pixel issue in a repair center.
 
All digital cameras are subject to hot pixels. Some of my Canon cameras had hot pixels. And there are situations where my Pro2 has hot pixels.

Hi BobbyT,

How do you deal with the hot pixels?
I use ACR and it's supposed to take care of it automatically, which I think it kind of does. The problem is when the image is dark and the ISO is high, then I guess ACR can't exactly tell the difference between a hot pixel and noise.
In fact, I noticed the only Rae images where ACR gets funky are the ones from the x-e1: as I start playing with the settings I notice a strange behavior, ACR goes back and forth with the overall values of the image. It doesn't happen with the raw files of my X-T10.
 
I just clone them out when necessary. On my particular Pro2 it seems to happen at higher iso combined with a long exposure. It is easy enough to clone them out when they do appear.
 
I just clone them out when necessary. On my particular Pro2 it seems to happen at higher iso combined with a long exposure. It is easy enough to clone them out when they do appear.

Yes, that's what I would do too.
I'm really surprised I've never experienced this issue before and now that I'm checking it seems pretty common instead. I'm used to import my raw files and just edit them, never had to clean any hot pixels before. Well, I guess I need to get used to it.
 
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