Fujifilm Instax Share Printer SP1

I'd love to have one. I'm doubting between this and one of the Polaroid Zink printers; the Zink photos are noticeably bigger but apparently not as sharp, and fuji's don't print to them directly. Both would be awesome to have when traveling.
 
Instead of using batteries I bought myself the power usb cable... 7.99US $ |New USB Power Cable For Instax Share Sp 1 Instant Film Printer|cable host|cable cluttercable casio - AliExpress

View attachment 25023


===



Kevin Mullins wrote a nice review of the Instax SP1

http://f16.click/gear/fujifilm-instax-share-sp-1-smartphoto-printer.html


Instax-Share-SP-1-11.jpg



===


Nice tweak for printing photos with Instax SP1

My Instax SP-1 Printer Experience: Fujifilm X System / SLR Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review


TS940x940~3046367.jpg
 
I love my SP-1 and yes, I agree, to get a "properly" printed image, you need to basically apply a filter or use something like Snapseed that increases contrast, saturation as well as lowering the exposure.

I went thru about two packs of film experimenting with Snapseed as well as VSCO filters. With a properly exposed image, my default settings in Snapseed before sending to the Instax are:

Brightness -50~60
Ambiance +50~60
Contrast +50~60
Saturation +10
Shadows +10
Highlight -10
Warmth -10

In the DPReview forum piece, I would caution cranking Ambiance up to 100, especially if it's a portrait, as it tends to make skin tones pretty unnatural.
 
I love my SP-1 and yes, I agree, to get a "properly" printed image, you need to basically apply a filter or use something like Snapseed that increases contrast, saturation as well as lowering the exposure.

I went thru about two packs of film experimenting with Snapseed as well as VSCO filters. With a properly exposed image, my default settings in Snapseed before sending to the Instax are:

Brightness -50~60
Ambiance +50~60
Contrast +50~60
Saturation +10
Shadows +10
Highlight -10
Warmth -10

In the DPReview forum piece, I would caution cranking Ambiance up to 100, especially if it's a portrait, as it tends to make skin tones pretty unnatural.


Nice!

Thanks for the info!
:)
 
I really like the idea of the Instax printer and now that I have an X100T would be able to print directly to the printer. I typically shoot RAW and then develop JPEGs using the in-camera RAW converter before transferring them directly to my phone or tablet (I've all but eliminated LR from my workflow unless I'm doing specific work for a 'client'). Does anyone have advice for in-camera developing in going from a properly exposed Classic Chrome JPEG to one that is more suited for Instax printing?
 
Back
Top