Regarding this threads and the thread concerning Isoless sensor, I did a quick test (I didn’t want to do the best shot of the year!).
I took a shot in RAW + Fine mode, at iso200, F/22 and at 1/125. The result was very dark. (Original.jpg).
Then I did an internal RAW conversion with +3EV, HightLight Tone: HARD, ShadowTone: SOFT (Converted.jpg).
So, I had 2 Jpeg’s, one very dark, but with all details, and another a little bit too dark except in the sky where the clouds were overexposed with loss of details.
Doing an HDR combination of those 2 jpeg’s (with a rather basic HDR tool), I had a result rather well exposed and with full of details in the sky. (HDR.jpg)
My choices were certainly not the bests, but I did it just to illustrate that you can do HDR starting from one RAW file at iso 200 to keep most of details.
I’m not sure that everybody will agree with me, but one could conclude that bracketing on the camera isn’t necessary if you have a good not overexposed RAW with plenty of details, choosing appropriate speed and aperture.
However, I have some remarks to do:
• In the internal RAW conversion tool, the Iso Push/Pull is limited to + or – 3EV;
• In the stored information’s of the converted Jpeg, there is nothing about the Iso Push/Pull (nor in the Exif) and exposure compensation stays at the selected value in the RAW file
• By the way, why doesn’t the exposure compensation dial works when aperture and speed are manual?;
• I choose French as language, but the detailed information’s stay in English.
Here the pictures:
Dropbox - File Deleted
Original
Dropbox - File Deleted
Converted.JPG
Dropbox - File Deleted
HDR.JPG
Frans