Fuji I don't normally do 100% crops...

BillN

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Bill
what's a 100% crop - I never quite understand the term

does it mean you have taken part of the original image and NOT resized it or what

so if we start with 6000 x 4000 and you chop a portion 600 x 400, but leave it as is - that is a 100% crop

It looks as if you have resized your crop's - so are they 100% crops?
 

BillN

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Bill
If you resize the original image to 600 x 400 showing the full image but resized, what is that called? ....... I thought that was also a 100% cropped - i.e. 100%, (all of the image), but reduced in size, (i.e. cropped down to 600 x 400), but still basically 6 x 4



but there again - if you crop 100%, you cut it all away and have nothing left
 

Lightmancer

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Bill Palmer
Thanks all. In answer to the queries - the lens was shot wide open and NR was set to 0 - I often set it to -1 to be fair. They also look softer on browser (Firefox in my case) than on Photoshop - on PS you can see each individual hair and on this image:

View attachment 69775
Brooklands 1940s Revisited Fuji X-E1 Hangar 3a 100% crop 40mm Summicron by Lightmancer, on Flickr

...you can see the down on the lady's right cheek. However, notice the slight flare on her cap badge too; I regard this as a quirk of the lens rather than post-processing and it is an effect that I like.

I have found that some lens and sensor combinations were made for each other - my GXR M Module always gave of its best with Zeiss lenses for example. I just really like the Summicron/X-E1 combination.

"100% crop" is (in my book at least) the image displayed at 100% on screen then cropped to that size; in other words, pixel for pixel.
 

Luke

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Luke
The shutter speeds are nice and fast. I'd say the ISO is perfect. One always wants to keep it as low as possible....even with the great noise handling. You get better dynamic range at the lower ISO. The only time you'd want to bump up the ISO is if you are having trouble gathering light, either with shutter speed or too small of an aperture.
 

Lightmancer

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Bill Palmer
I'm not sure why I would have bumped the ISO - as Luke says, I try to keep it as near to base as possible whilst still having a shutter speed that is usable handheld. I'm happy I made the right choice in this case. Bear in mind, incidentally that I spotmeter to get the exposure I want.
 
It cracks me up that people are afraid of using higher ISO's. Today's cameras handle 800-1200 ISO quite well. This then translates into being able to use faster speeds, especially when shooting handheld.

I agree that you should start off with as low of an ISO as possible, but don't be afraid to increase it.

Anyway, still like the images. Anything of planes, especially WWI/II are neat.
 

BillN

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Bill
It cracks me up that people are afraid of using higher ISO's. Today's cameras handle 800-1200 ISO quite well. This then translates into being able to use faster speeds, especially when shooting handheld.

.

Not my Leica M8 - it likes to stick to ISO160 otherwise it gets a "headache"
 

Luke

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I think the 100% ones look great. I'm tempted to grab a lens of my own that I know is super sharp and shoot it wide open and see how it compares.

These were shot wide open, not stopped down to f5.6 or some sweet spot for sharpness.

Methinks some folks have not looked at their own shots at f2 at 100% recently. I'd take these in a heartbeat.
 

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