Fuji ISO analog wheel on Fuji X-T1

[Vladimir Kuznetsov]

Hy, guys!

Here is the question to gurus in this thread. I understand how to use shatter and aperture when you are making a shot. However, ISO. probably, should be left alone for the camera to set up. I understand the professionals can use ISO dial to their advantage. I would like to know how it can be used. The reason I am asking this question - X-T10 does not have ISO wheel on top, how critical is this?

Thx

vlad

 

[flysurfer]

It's just a matter of having an analog or a digital interface to control ISO. Some folks prefer analog, so Fuji put in an ISO dial to replace the ISO menu.

 

[Vladimir Kuznetsov]

Rico, actually I would like to know in what situations it is beneficial to set ISO manually. How professionals do it? According to your "111 tips . . ." book sensor is always set up to ISO200, the rest is just a matter of calculations of the raw image. I see two major things missing in X-T10 - WP and analog ISO dial. I am trying to understand if they are worth of $700 that I would pay for X-T1.

 

[Lightmancer]

For me, it's a simple matter of control over the final image. Any settings prefixed by "Auto-" are under the control of a programmer in Osaka and there are many times when I would rather make the choice myself.

 

[Vladimir Kuznetsov]

Bill, thanks for your response. But if you decided to set it manually, how do you know the right value ('programmer in Osaka' knows ? Or are you using try-and-error method making few shots with different ISO's? Am I missing something here?

Thx

vlad

 

[jeffryscott]

Film speed, a.k.a. ISO, is the sensitivity of the film, or in this case, sensor, to light. It is one of the basics of exposure, as is shutter speed and aperture. At ISO 200, the sensor needs less exposure to light for a given shutter speed and aperture. for example, a bright area at ISO 200 may need an exposure of 1/250 second at F8 (I'm just using numbers as examples, not actual exposures). That same area at ISO 800 could use the same 1/250 second shutter speed, but require the lens to be stopped down to F16 to achieve the same exposure. Here, you would want to use the lower ISO, for better noise characteristics. Where you want to use ISO 800, 1600, 3200, etc ... are in dark areas where light is at a premium, or when you need a fast enough shutter speed to stop action, such as at a sporting event. At ISO 3200 a shutter speed of 1/250 and F2.8 would require a shutter speed of 1/15 second at F2.8 to have the same exposure.

So basically, if the light is good, keep the ISO low. If the light is bad, crank it up. The auto ISO on these cameras works well. You can set the minimum shutter speed the camera will shoot at before bumping up the ISO. Really a hand feature if you work in situations where the light is changing.

 

[flysurfer]

Rico, actually I would like to know in what situations it is beneficial to set ISO manually. How professionals do it? According to your "111 tips . . ." book sensor is always set up to ISO200, the rest is just a matter of calculations of the raw image. I see two major things missing in X-T10 - WP and analog ISO dial. I am trying to understand if they are worth of $700 that I would pay for X-T1.

I often set ISO manually in the X-T10 and X-T1. I don't see a difference beteween the cameras here, just a different input interface. I actually often prefer the menu interface, as it allows me to select 3 different Auto-ISO settings and to store ISO settings in C1-C7 custom presets. Very handy if you ask me. So no, I'd sometimes rather pay more to get rid of the ISO dial, at least Fuji's current implementation. Of course, they could have just included an additional "M" (for Menu) position on the dial that puts ISO back to the menu so I can change it with a Fn button and store it in custom presets. Win-win for everyone and every taste and every application. As it is now, I still need a menu and Fn button for ISO on the X-T1, because Auto-ISO settings are controlled in a menu. So despite the dial, I still lose one Fn button to ISO.

 

[Lightmancer]

Bill, thanks for your response. But if you decided to set it manually, how do you know the right value ('programmer in Osaka' knows ? Or are you using try-and-error method making few shots with different ISO's? Am I missing something here?

Thx

vlad

Good question Vlad. For many years I have shot Leica cameras without a meter, using "Sunny-16" I always shoot with ISO400 black and white film because I know how it behaves. This is not as hard as it sounds. I don't bracket, and I very, very rarely lose a shot to over- or underexposure.

Bear in mind that the "right value" (or the proper exposure) is largely subjective. On the whole I tend to meter for the highlights and let shadows drop to black. Spot metering is my preferred tool. I work on the principle that an average exposure delivers an average photo; the proverbial Osaka programmer does not know my tastes, my preferences, my intent or my subject. I do, and it's me releasing the shutter.

 

[flysurfer]

Fuji's cameras use WYSIWYG, so finding the right exposure is pretty easy visually by looking at the live view and live histogram. You see the image you take in advance. That's one of the major advantages of mirrorless against DSLRs, but bear in mind that this has nothing to do with ISO dials vs. ISO menus.

Btw, the X-T10 now allows exposure compensation even in its most basic full auto mode with scene recognition (SR+), so it has now been acknowledged that even untrained users who want or need to automate everything are still personally responsible for the correct exposure (and not the camera).

This is basically in line with smartphone cameras that are also fully automated, but even there, the basic camera app allows you not only to set a focus point but also a metering area. After all, the user knows best what he wants, and even the smartest phone or camera can't read the user's mind.

It's not a coincidence that the exposure compensation dial is the most prominent and accessible dial on every Fujifilm camera. This is because you are expected to use it with pretty much every shot.

 

[Vladimir Kuznetsov]

Guys, thanks for your replies. I learned something I did not know before. However the original question was not addressed at all, should I pay $700 extra for X-T1., essentially for WP and ISO direct dial? I am at the point of moving from X30 to one of this camera and I wanted to know if these two features justify extra dollars. Any opinions?

Thx

vlad

 

[flysurfer]

Only you can answer this question. The X-T1 is a different camera than the X-T10. The X-T10 has advantages and disadvantages that are noted in my First Look. How can anybody other than yourself tell how valuable each of these pros and cons is to you?

To me, the X-T1 battery grip is more important than the ISO dial. Other users value the tethering function. Personally, I don't care about that, but appreciate UHS-2 and the much larger buffer of the X-T1. Weather sealing? Not that important to me (I prefer command dials that can be pressed), but others can't live w/o it (or tell themselves that they can't). Side-loading SD card? It's convenient, but not a deal-breaker. Not to mention the larger EVF, or the dual view mode in MF. And so on...

OTOH, the T10 has a more advanced UI, an additional Fn button, it's lighter, smaller (maybe too small?), made in Thailand, less sturdy, but with buttons that are easier to operate, it has more robust JPEGs, a built-in flash (but weaker than the one that comes with the T1), SR+ and scene modes, etc.

So you would pick just two of those many differences and then ask us (with each of us having quite different priorities) if those two features alone justify the higher price? Very hard to tell. They probably do, because since you specifically picked those 2 features, they are probably important to you. To me, they really aren't.

 

[Vladimir Kuznetsov]

Rico, you are absolutely right - each one of us has his own value system and preferences. Ion your last post you expressed yours and thank you for that. Now when I know your views on X-T10 vs. X-T1 ( and also of lightmancer and JeffryScott) I have more information to make up my mind.

Thanks to everybody.

vlad

 

[Lightmancer]

Vlad, let me leave you with this thought. With Fuji these days you could make a wrong choice - that is, a choice that doesn't work for you - but you cannot make a bad choice - there is not a poor camera in the line up. I have had two X100s and neither sat well with me; I didn't like the handling or the overall execution. Others, however, love it and make it sing for them. To paraphrase Rico, we are all different - and there is a camera out there for each of us, with our optimum balance of features, handling, value and performance. It's up to you, now, to make that choice.

 

[tyrphoto]

For lack of a better metaphor, cameras are like your partner of choice. You have to look, feel, spend time with and decide whether it's the right one for you. Everyone has different preferences and criteria that they look for. What's right for me may not be right for the next person and only you can decide.

Choosing a camera based on other people's vote is like choosing a GF/BF/Spouse based on what others think. Rarely does that lead to a happy outcome. With that said, both are excellent cameras but that doesn't mean they are a good fit for everyone.

 

[jeffryscott]

Ideally you should handle both cameras before deciding. While similar, there will be differences that may make one better than the other from a handling point of view.

 

[flysurfer]

I have to wait for the optional handgrip before I can really make up my mind about the X-T10. Will get one soon, I guess.