Fuji I've been researching Fuji cameras for awhile and I want one, need advice

fatgopher

New Member
Aug 4, 2017
I want a new to me Fuji camera. I have a case full of older Nikkor AIS lens that I would love to use. I use Nikon currently but honestly, the digital cameras aren't easy to manual focus. I played with a sony NEX5 and fell in love with focus peaking. That camera though was hard to see the screen in sunlight. Turned my attention to Fuji. I've watched tons of youtube videos but when it comes down to focus peaking almost none provide info I want.
Is the screen and the focus peaking highlights, easy to see in sunlight with a fuji camera. And which ones can you change the focus peaking color?
For a long time I was certain I wanted either a X-T1 or Xt10 but now the Xpro1, the Xm1 and Xe1 look promising.
Does anyone just use adapted manual focus lens only?
 

KillRamsey

Hall of Famer
Jun 20, 2012
Hood River, OR
Kyle
A few people here over the years have been "adapted only." More of us mix the occasional adapted lens in with the native glass for various reasons - price-to-optical-quality ratio, unique focal length, "I already own these", or just the enjoyable experience of using well made older MF glass.

The screen is ok in sunlight, and the focus peaking is probably just average these days, not amazing. From what I've heard, Olympus M4/3 gear is the best for that, maybe followed by full frame Sony gear. So on the Olympus hand, you have a 2x crop factor, which isn't great for your old glass... you can't ever get wide. On the other hand, you have Sony A7 bodies going for mid-1000's used still, mostly, compared to a used Fuji XE2 for something like $300? Or a used XT1 for under $500 body-only.

In short, I don't want to split hairs or give you a non-answer, but I strongly suspect that

A) A used Fuji would be more than good enough, and
B) A used Sony A7 would be better focus peaking and huge gorgeous files, but cost a lot more money, and
C) A used Oly M4/3 would be better focus peaking but frustrate you with its 2x crop factor.
 

Covey22

Hall of Famer
Feb 3, 2012
In the used market, you'll find it's not a wallet breaker to go from an XE-1 to an XE-2. Given the improvements in XE-2, I'd go for the newer model. If you ever decide to get native Fujinon glass, you'll appreciate the upgrades.
 

Adam Bonn

Top Veteran
Jan 13, 2016
Porto
Adam Bonn
The earlier Fujis (x-pro1/xe1/xm1) are no where as good at focus peaking as the newer Fujis, so bear that in mind if focus peaking is the main thing you'll be doing with it
 

Larry T

Regular
Sep 6, 2015
Larry Thacker
I took this picture of the moon with a Vivitar Series 1 600mm Solid Cat on an X-Pro1 body.
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The screen was not only easy to see, it approximates exposure as well. The only problem I had that night was wind, and a not so steady tripod.
 

bs1946

Regular
Mar 12, 2016
The peaking in the X-T1 and X-T10 is the same as my X-E2 has. Choice of Red, Blue, or white in high or low resolution. When I had my X-E1, Fuji didn't add peaking yet but, my understanding is that it comes in low resolution white only. Perhaps an X-E1 user here can verify that and as for the X-Pro1 and X-M1, I have no clue if they even have peaking.

It doesn't matter if you use an adapted lens or a third-party X-mount manual lens like the Samyang/Rokinon lenses; they work the same way. Right now, my only Fuji lens is the 14mm f2.8. I also have a Rokinon 21mm f1.4 plus three Minolta MD lenses; 28mm f2.8, 50mm f1.7, and 135mm f3.5. I bought those Minolta MD lenses along with a used Minolta X700 camera more than 25 years ago. For the cost of an adapter, I added three lenses to my X-E2 kit for nothing. For the first six months of 2016, I had four Rokinon lenses, plus the Fuji 18mm and Fuji 27mm, and all I used were the four Rokinon lenses; the two Fuji lenses never left the bottom of my camera bag.

I will usually set my X-E2 to RAW+FINE, B&W film simulation, and Red Peaking. That set-up gives me a monochrome image in the EVF or LCD and with magnification plus the red peaking against the monochrome image, focus is quick and easier than it was with any of my manual-focus film cameras. If the B&W jpeg looks good, I just download the files. But if I want an color ooc jpeg, I use the in-camera RAW converter to create one before I download anything.

All three of the images below were ooc jpegs.
1. Classic Chrome with Minolta 135mm f3.5
2. Classic Chrome with Minolta 50mm f1.7
3. B&W with Rokinon 21mm f1.4

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fatgopher

New Member
Aug 4, 2017
I just won an X-E1 on ebay. I'm super excited to try out a fuji camera. I have a large collection of nikon lens and super excited to test them out. I had a friend give me a 135mm f2, a 105mm 2.5 and even a 35mm f2.8 tilt lens. I dont know if it my eyes or the focusing screen of my nikon but I have trouble focusing these lens. I wish to thank everyone for your help. I chose the X-E1 because it had the same sensor as the X-t1 and X-t10 which I would have preferred but I got this camera for almost $200 cheaper than those are going for. If I like this body I plan to save up for the X-T2.
 

KillRamsey

Hall of Famer
Jun 20, 2012
Hood River, OR
Kyle
Just remember that a lot of things got quicker and better after the XE1. It's a good, cheap proof of concept, but having used both, my (old, now) XT1 is a helluva lot more fun to use. I'm sure the XT2 is another jump up.
 

mick2d2

New Member
Aug 26, 2017
The peaking in the X-T1 and X-T10 is the same as my X-E2 has. Choice of Red, Blue, or white in high or low resolution. When I had my X-E1, Fuji didn't add peaking yet but, my understanding is that it comes in low resolution white only. Perhaps an X-E1 user here can verify that and as for the X-Pro1 and X-M1, I have no clue if they even have peaking.

It doesn't matter if you use an adapted lens or a third-party X-mount manual lens like the Samyang/Rokinon lenses; they work the same way. Right now, my only Fuji lens is the 14mm f2.8. I also have a Rokinon 21mm f1.4 plus three Minolta MD lenses; 28mm f2.8, 50mm f1.7, and 135mm f3.5. I bought those Minolta MD lenses along with a used Minolta X700 camera more than 25 years ago. For the cost of an adapter, I added three lenses to my X-E2 kit for nothing. For the first six months of 2016, I had four Rokinon lenses, plus the Fuji 18mm and Fuji 27mm, and all I used were the four Rokinon lenses; the two Fuji lenses never left the bottom of my camera bag.

I will usually set my X-E2 to RAW+FINE, B&W film simulation, and Red Peaking. That set-up gives me a monochrome image in the EVF or LCD and with magnification plus the red peaking against the monochrome image, focus is quick and easier than it was with any of my manual-focus film cameras. If the B&W jpeg looks good, I just download the files. But if I want an color ooc jpeg, I use the in-camera RAW converter to create one before I download anything.

All three of the images below were ooc jpegs.
1. Classic Chrome with Minolta 135mm f3.5
2. Classic Chrome with Minolta 50mm f1.7
3. B&W with Rokinon 21mm f1.4

View attachment 32272 View attachment 32273 View attachment 32274
The peaking in the X-T1 and X-T10 is the same as my X-E2 has. Choice of Red, Blue, or white in high or low resolution. When I had my X-E1, Fuji didn't add peaking yet but, my understanding is that it comes in low resolution white only. Perhaps an X-E1 user here can verify that and as for the X-Pro1 and X-M1, I have no clue if they even have peaking.

It doesn't matter if you use an adapted lens or a third-party X-mount manual lens like the Samyang/Rokinon lenses; they work the same way. Right now, my only Fuji lens is the 14mm f2.8. I also have a Rokinon 21mm f1.4 plus three Minolta MD lenses; 28mm f2.8, 50mm f1.7, and 135mm f3.5. I bought those Minolta MD lenses along with a used Minolta X700 camera more than 25 years ago. For the cost of an adapter, I added three lenses to my X-E2 kit for nothing. For the first six months of 2016, I had four Rokinon lenses, plus the Fuji 18mm and Fuji 27mm, and all I used were the four Rokinon lenses; the two Fuji lenses never left the bottom of my camera bag.

I will usually set my X-E2 to RAW+FINE, B&W film simulation, and Red Peaking. That set-up gives me a monochrome image in the EVF or LCD and with magnification plus the red peaking against the monochrome image, focus is quick and easier than it was with any of my manual-focus film cameras. If the B&W jpeg looks good, I just download the files. But if I want an color ooc jpeg, I use the in-camera RAW converter to create one before I download anything.

All three of the images below were ooc jpegs.
1. Classic Chrome with Minolta 135mm f3.5
2. Classic Chrome with Minolta 50mm f1.7
3. B&W with Rokinon 21mm f1.4

View attachment 32272 View attachment 32273 View attachment 32274
The manual focus for the X-E1 has three settings: standard, low peaking and high peaking. It doesn't have colour unfortunately.
Brilliant idea of shooting in raw b&w with peaking in red! Sometimes it can be tricky focusing in bright sunlight with manual lenses, which is what I mainly use. I'll certainly remember your tip if I ever upgrade my X-E1.
 

bs1946

Regular
Mar 12, 2016
I just put my last AF lens, 14mm f2.8, up for sale and now I just have five manual lens. I do ten times better when I use MF.
 

fatgopher

New Member
Aug 4, 2017
OK, I've had the X-E1 for 2 months now. I've had a blast with it but what I have a problem with is the focus peaking is next to useless. I do love using the ton of old manual focus lens that I have. I work at a newspaper and once everyone went auto focus the manual lens were thrown in a box and forgotten. So I have a 300mm f2.8, a 135mm f2 and tons of 50mm and 35mm and 28mm. Of course a 300mm on a fuji is ridiculous but the images are incredible. It's just a fun camera. So my question is, does the X-e2 or X-e3 have usable focus peaking. Where you can see highlights to allow one to focus quickly with adapted lens. I do have a fuji 16-50 f3.5 zoom and it's ok. I would like to get a fuji prime but will wait till I get a better camera. The tractor pic is with a nikon 135mm f2 and the butterfly is with a 300mm f2.8. I absolutely love the color from this camera. Thank you for advice given earlier!!
 

bs1946

Regular
Mar 12, 2016
As I said before, when I had my X-E1, it didn't have peaking yet. That came in a firmware upgrade after I sold my X-E1 but, based on Mick2D2s comments, it's does not sound that great. With the X-E2, both the EVF and LCD are better plus peaking comes in three color choices; red, blue, white, and each color has high res or low res. In addition there are two strengths of magnification to work with the peaking. As far as I know, the MF Assist capabilities on the new 24mp bodies are the same as the X-E2 and that would include the new X-E3.

With the tractor ride photo you could have used the split-image and magnification to focus on the verticals on the front of the tractor, on the tractor exhaust, or trailer verticals. It's easy to align the edges on the verticals with magnification and can be better to focus. I have MF Assist assigned to an Fn button so I can quickly change peaking colors or go to split-screen.
 
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Lightmancer

Legend
Aug 13, 2011
Sunny Frimley
Bill Palmer
I have an X-Pro2 and use the split image focus whenever using MF lenses. Focus peaking has inherent limitations and, particularly with longer, faster lenses, split image is the way to go. Bear in mind, also, that the X-E1 is quite elderly now. A good proof of concept, as Kyle says, but if MF is a big thing for you, you really should upgrade. I'd suggest an X-T1 as a cost-effective next step.

And of course a 300mm on a Fuji isn't ridiculous... Here's a 400mm to prove it...
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;)
 

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