Leica Showcase Leica M Image Thread

I shot a wedding as a favour last summer with the M8 & 50 sonnar (nikonos V as backup), it was pretty good.
The B&G were originally going to forego a photographer entirely, so my wife volunteered me into the post.

They were very happy with the results, and I'm still proud of a few of the pics now myself - but I'd echo that focus confirmation is an issue; you just can't be critical on the LCD, so you never really know what's happened until you upload. Oh and get a spare battery. :)

Loverly shots btw Gordon
 
Those are lovely photos Gordon! And the bride is gorgeous too. Always helps to have a beautiful subject. That's what I tell my significant other. Good way to score brownie points. Speaking of which, she's finally back in town, and had a chance to use the Lux on her. The out of focus rendering on the Lux is super nice ... I'm thinking that this is a keeper now.

View attachment 51362
 
Those are lovely photos Gordon! And the bride is gorgeous too. Always helps to have a beautiful subject. That's what I tell my significant other. Good way to score brownie points. Speaking of which, she's finally back in town, and had a chance to use the Lux on her. The out of focus rendering on the Lux is super nice ... I'm thinking that this is a keeper now.

Mary_1.jpg
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That's a beautiful girl.

The rendering of the Lux is just amazing. Compare it to the last shot of mine, which was done on the CV 50mm 1.5 and you can immediately see the differences.

Gordon
 
This is with a 1950 Jupiter-3, one of the first made. It looks unused, probably because it did not focus correctly. This one might have "practice" for machining, mix of German parts and a mount that was not maufactured correctly. The optics were held in by sewing thread wrapped around the assemble, the lens front-focused badlt, and there were no shims to remove. The mount was simply not deep enough.

Anyway: remounted in a different mount, from a 1956 KMZ.

Wide-open at F1.5, on the M9:





 
At F4:





I set the sweet spot for close-up and wide-open. The focal length of the lens seems to be on the short side, even less than the Leica standard. I will probably move the rear triplet out a bit to compensate.
 
I like to experiment with adapting different lenses to Leica mount, including the Pre-War Sonnars and Russian Jupiters. I will be going to Calloway Gardens tomorrow, and will be using the 1934 5cm F1.5 Sonnar cpnverted to Leica mount. I'm also bringing this J-3.
 
Armando, it may be a typo on Brian's part, but the Jupiter lenses from that era didn't have a "click detente" aperture ring, so the aperture setting is continuously variable
 
Posted late, after a long day having fun. So the Decimal place added.

With a Jupiter-3, I usually shoot wide-open at F1.5 or at F4. I tend to be able to compensate for the The Focus Shift at F4, focus with the RF patch then back off just a little. I set the lenses for perfect agreement close-up and wide-open. This Jupiter-3 is very early, and I might move the rear module out just a little. The focal length is the shortest that I've run across on all of the J-3's seen to date.
 
Speaking of focus shift, can someone explain to me the definition? My understanding is that focus shift occurs when you focus at aperture X, and then change to aperture Y before clicking the shutter button. So to avoid focus shift, set aperture first, then focus, and then shoot.

So focus shift would be different than a lens that is either front or back focusing. Because in the latter, the focus is off no matter what. While for a lens with focus shift issues, it only occurs if you change the aperture after having already focused.

Is this more or less correct? Thanks!!
 
Speaking of focus shift, can someone explain to me the definition? My understanding is that focus shift occurs when you focus at aperture X, and then change to aperture Y before clicking the shutter button. So to avoid focus shift, set aperture first, then focus, and then shoot.

So focus shift would be different than a lens that is either front or back focusing. Because in the latter, the focus is off no matter what. While for a lens with focus shift issues, it only occurs if you change the aperture after having already focused.

Is this more or less correct? Thanks!!

Focus shift occurs when the plane of focus changes depending on the aperture set. If the focusing method is through the lens (PS or CD AF or live view or groundglass manual focus), the shift occurs if the lens is focused at one aperture and shot at a different aperture. If the lens is focused and shot at the same aperture, no shift occurs.

The problem is with focusing methods that are not through the lens, such as rangefinder focusing. In order to get accurate focus, for those apertures in which the focus shift occurs, you would need to focus and then compensate, in the fashion described by Brian.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,

Antonio
 
The problem is with focusing methods that are not through the lens, such as rangefinder focusing. In order to get accurate focus, for those apertures in which the focus shift occurs, you would need to focus and then compensate, in the fashion described by Brian.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,

Antonio

Thanks Antonio!

Just so that I get it right ... in rangefinders, if a lens suffers from focus shift, it does NOT suffice for me to merely set aperture first and then focus. Whenever I focus, I actually will have to compensate for the back or front focus that occurs at that particular aperture.

Is this more or less what you are saying? Sounds like a lot of trouble to go through. Urgh.
 
Thanks Antonio!

Just so that I get it right ... in rangefinders, if a lens suffers from focus shift, it does NOT suffice for me to merely set aperture first and then focus. Whenever I focus, I actually will have to compensate for the back or front focus that occurs at that particular aperture.

Is this more or less what you are saying? Sounds like a lot of trouble to go through. Urgh.

Correct. Remember that the rangefinder mechanism is a mechanical linkage with the lens. The mechanism only knows the distance set on the focusing ring. If a rangefinder lens suffers from focus shift, you either avoid the aperture(s) at which the shift occur, or learn to compensate for it. No other way around it, as far as I know. Maybe Brian can comment as well.

Regards,

Antonio
 
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