Lightroom: questions, answers, tips, and how to's

I am still in the iPhoto stage, slowly evolving into RAW photography - I do have Bibble, Aperature, Lightroom, Capture One (free version with my Sigma tele zoons) and Phocus (Hasselblad's free RAW converter/program), and GIMP, which also can handle RAW, if not perfectly! And various programs that came free with the various cameras: Pentax, Olympus, Sony, Nikon, to mention a few!

Any easy way from iPhoto to ...??!
 
My advice Tord - pick one and stick with it. You'll never have time to learn all of those programmes well enough to get the best out of them.
 

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I tested on a very noise pic (ISO 18000) I did before with Topaz Denoise AI.
Seems to be some bug putting a blue tone. It is on every pic I have tried (like ~10 pics from three different brand of cameras).

Noise test - Original.jpg Noise test - LR Denoise AI.jpgNoise test - Topaz Denoise AI.jpg
 
I played around with this a little tonight comparing it to Prime in DXO PureRAW 2 using a 3200 ISO file from my Sony RX100. With all sharpening turned off in both LR and PR2 the DXO output is a little crisper. Adding in the DXO lens module sharpening it is noticeably better. (Since sharpening in DXO is lens specific this may not be true for all lenses.) Boosting sharpening on the LR processed file using LR's sharpening tools to try to match the PR output resulted in sharpening artefacts. It's a good first effort from LR and I expect they will develop and improve it, but for now it won't replace PR2 for me. Also, on my somewhat elderly laptop LR took 6 minutes to process the file while PR2 took 2 minutes. That's quite a significant factor if you don't have a bang up to date high end set up.

For me the more significant update this time round is being able to use curves with masks.
 
Here are some 100% crops from the image I was experimenting with. From top to bottom:

1. Original unprocessed file with all default LR sharpening removed.
2. File processed with LR denoise and all default LR sharpening removed. (When using denoise LR automatically applies 'Raw Details' which can't be turned off)
3. File processed with DXO PR2 with lens module sharpening off.
4. File processed with DXO PR2 with lens module sharpening on.

1. Original unprocessed file.

DSC05461.jpg
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2. File processed with LR denoise and all default LR sharpening removed.

DSC05461-Enhanced-NR.jpg
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3. File processed with DXO PR2 with lens module sharpening off.

DSC05461-ARW_DxO_DeepPRIME-2.jpg
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4. File processed with DXO PR2 with lens module sharpening on.

DSC05461-ARW_DxO_DeepPRIME-3.jpg
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I played around with this a little tonight comparing it to Prime in DXO PureRAW 2 using a 3200 ISO file from my Sony RX100. With all sharpening turned off in both LR and PR2 the DXO output is a little crisper. Adding in the DXO lens module sharpening it is noticeably better. (Since sharpening in DXO is lens specific this may not be true for all lenses.) Boosting sharpening on the LR processed file using LR's sharpening tools to try to match the PR output resulted in sharpening artefacts. It's a good first effort from LR and I expect they will develop and improve it, but for now it won't replace PR2 for me. Also, on my somewhat elderly laptop LR took 6 minutes to process the file while PR2 took 2 minutes. That's quite a significant factor if you don't have a bang up to date high end set up.

For me the more significant update this time round is being able to use curves with masks.
Agree. I may use Lightroom's Denoise every now and then, but not routinely because I hate to have large files added to my catalog. Curves option in masking is just a great addition, have used it already for quite some pictures I took lately. And previews browsing is indeed faster than before. All in all quite the update after the bomb they dropped with AI masking.
 
I just wrote a broader comparison report today, pegging LR's new NR engine against Topaz, DxO, and ON1 with test images from three different bodies. Full report is here: Denoising Software Comparison - This Beautiful Planet.

Hope some of you will find it useful.
Interesting write up. I tried the trial version of DXO DeepPrimeXD on a few files (via PureRAW) but didn't consider it a sufficient improvement over DeepPrime to be worth the $80 upgrade fee. My experience with it was that at default settings it 'over-recovers' or 'over-sharpens' detail (I'm not sure exactly how it works so I'm not sure exactly what it is doing.) I though this was particularly noticeable with faces. I found that it worked best with the default setting turned down, which partly negates any advantage over DeepPrime.

I'm hoping that Adobe will fine tune their offering and provide some options for fine tuning how its applied, and will ultimately make DeepPrime redundant (for me.)
 
I just came across this video. I did purchase his video set before Adobe Denoise AI was introduced. Two step process. Using LrC create a virtual copy. On the first file reduce noise manually for subject and on the second for the background. Send both to PS and blend. No need anymore.

I've also always wondered if Denoising before Sharpening was better than the other way around. Sometimes it's hard to judge. I'll try his method for a while. I also have been using that technique at the end to mask the background and get rid of more noise for quite some time.

 
I'm really starting to enjoy using the mask intersecting.


I start using Adobe Neutral for all files and apply Auto. After Auto the Blacks and Contrast need a bit of a boost to get a little more life in the file. It gets closer to the baked profiles. I used intersecting on the left side to darken it. I also used Color Mixer - Point Color to bring up the saturation in the legs and beak separately. This is more than I'd normally do but just an example.

At import

_M3A5309.jpg
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After playing around

_M3A5309-2.jpg
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Latest LR update seems really interesting.

Denoise AI and even more mask AI settings!

Have not tried it yet, anyone tried and compared to Topaz?

A few things. I own all the Topaz products. DeNoise AI, Sharpen AI, GigaPixel and Photo AI. I never really wanted Giga but Topaz made this offer. If I bought it they would throw in Photo AI and I'd get another year of updates for DeNoise AI and Sharpen AI. I never got any for those two which I knew would happen. They were on their way out. Now Topaz only offers Photo AI, Video AI and Giga. You can still download your legacy apps if you want them. I have v1 of Photo AI.

I also used ON1 NoNoise v1 and DXO PureRaw v2. I was considering PR v3 until Adobe came out with Denoise AI. I turfed everything except Topaz Sharpen AI which I use only if need to. This has saved me a lot of money over the last two years. I also like everything under one roof.

I only use Adobe Denoise AI if the file needs it. It's was pretty decent for the first release. I was hoping for a a bit of an update with how it handles noise this spring but Adobe did two things that were very helpful. Last fall they decreased the DNG size by ⅔ which made a huge difference. This spring they fixed the neural engine issue for the silicone chips in Macs (M chip). My travel MacBook Air M1, 16GB memory took 115 seconds. It now takes 25 seconds. My 2019 iMac was affected because it's Intel. Still at 33 seconds.

DXO has always had a good product. PR 4 which has DeepPrime XD2 made some decent improvements. I'm hoping for some improvements with Denoise AI this fall but you never know. Since its subscription Adobe releases improvements throughout the year. It is always leap frogging which is good for all of us, no matter what we use.

Here are a few things they are looking at.


I'm very pleased with the results I get with Adobe Denoise AI. If I to get rid of more background noise I use masking and reduce Texture, Sharpening increase NR. I can wipe out all noise completely if I want to. However as Steve Perry states some noise is important to avoid posterization when printing. For web/screen display it does not matter.

Here is a 51200 ISO handheld shot running it through Denoise AI and masking the sky to remove more noise. It may take a little more work but I don't mind and it does not take very long.

_M3A5174-Enhanced-NR-Edit.jpg
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I do this quite often for my B&W images as it boosts contrast while expanding the overall tonality in the midtones. (before you do this, the standard advice of shooting in RAW and calibrating your monitor goes without saying)

1.)slide the black point slider so that it touches the edge of the histogram

2.)slide the "brightness" slider towards the left and darken the image dramatically. How much depends on the image but you want anywhere from 1/3 to 1/2 of the right side of the histogram to be blank. Yes the image will be very dark and look bad.

3.)slide the "exposure" slider over towards the right until the image looks good

this works because of the different ways that lightroom manipluates data with the brightness and exposure sliders, what you are doing is expanding the midtones while not changing the darks or the lights, very similar to usuing a compensating developer with B&W film in a darkroom.

With some images the above results may look a bit flat, if that is the case use the curve tool to boost contrast a bit
I've never seen this thread before, so I'm replying to a 14-year-old post.

When I did my own B&W printing, I mostly used Ilford Multigrade Cold Tone. The blue label one. Warm tone was pink label. (???)

I think cold-tone B&W has more of a fine-art feel. All the B&W presets I see tend to be pretty warm. I use the Color Grading panel to dial in a kiss of blue on my monochrome images.

LE_12-8947.jpg
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Capture.JPG
 
I guess it is 14 years old. I never noticed. Nice B&W. I found several videos and I do all my B&W from scratch. I've counted over 75 edits including masking using LrC. I could not repeat it on the same file a week later. It's like box of chocolates. You never know what you are going to get.

I'm a big Ansel Adams fan. Read all of his books and in the 80's played with the Zone System. Built a 4 by 5 field camera kit by Bender. Had a darkroom and all the rest. They were fun days but I don't miss it. Now I prefer the digital darkroom.
 
I spent the 80s in a lab and I was pretty good at it. Ansel Adams was my hero, not as a photographer, but as a chemist. Dude could make a negative. I don't miss any of it. Digital is better.
 
I spent the 80s in a lab and I was pretty good at it. Ansel Adams was my hero, not as a photographer, but as a chemist. Dude could make a negative. I don't miss any of it. Digital is better.
I tried to keep the records like he did through all the steps from film to print with the various films, chemicals, paper, etc. I eventually gave up :) When we stayed in Santa Fe we took a day trip to Hernandez.
 
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