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asiafish
All-Pro
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
- Name
- Andrew
I can't wait to hear what you think of it, and of course to see some pictures.
Brass body, close focus and modern coatings could make this the perfect Sonnar. I'll be ordering one of these if reviews are positive.
Brass body, close focus and modern coatings could make this the perfect Sonnar. I'll be ordering one of these if reviews are positive.
Order one...
NOW: my lens is spot-on for my M9. There is a difference in focus for an M Monochrom using a deep yellow filter and the M9, about 0.02mm in the shim. I have some Sonnars and J-3's that I set the shim for use on the M Monochrom with an Orange filter. These lenses must be used at F2 on my M9. My J-3+ is PERFECT on the M9. I'm going to suggest to Lomo that they allow for an option to special order a lens optimized for the M Monochrom.
Jupiter-3+, wide-open on the M9.
j3plus_test by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr
j3plus_flatfieldtest by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr
This is the best Jupiter-3 that I have ever seen. And I've seen over 200 of them.
NOW: my lens is spot-on for my M9. There is a difference in focus for an M Monochrom using a deep yellow filter and the M9, about 0.02mm in the shim. I have some Sonnars and J-3's that I set the shim for use on the M Monochrom with an Orange filter. These lenses must be used at F2 on my M9. My J-3+ is PERFECT on the M9. I'm going to suggest to Lomo that they allow for an option to special order a lens optimized for the M Monochrom.
Jupiter-3+, wide-open on the M9.
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr
This is the best Jupiter-3 that I have ever seen. And I've seen over 200 of them.
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I know everyone is waiting for the infamous Fence-Post picture.
Jupiter-3+
Fence Post Test by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr
Wide-open, lots of overexposed snow!
Jupiter-3+
Wide-open, lots of overexposed snow!
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asiafish
All-Pro
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
- Name
- Andrew
Is it optimized for accurate focus wide-open or at f/2.8 like the ZM Sonnars?
asiafish
All-Pro
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
- Name
- Andrew
Ordered
This lens is optimized for wide-open use at F1.5 with a full-color camera. It is perfect on my M9.
For the M Monochrom: use of color filters produces a focus shift as only longer wavelength light is left in the formed image. This is a product of longitudinal chromatic aberration being selectively filtered out. My trick, as you know, is to increase the thickness of the shim to account for the use of color filters on the M Monochrom. This is not required for the M9.
Using this 1976 Pop Photo test of a 50/2 Summicron, you can see a 0.08mm focus shift from blue to red. This is more than focus shift caused by stopping down the aperture! If you use an orange filter all the time, you want to increase the shim by 2/3rds of the total shift- about 0.06mm.
leica_summicron by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr
FOR MY OWN J3+, I might just put 1-layer of copper tape on the CAM to test with the M Monochrom. The copper tape comes off easily.
For the M Monochrom: use of color filters produces a focus shift as only longer wavelength light is left in the formed image. This is a product of longitudinal chromatic aberration being selectively filtered out. My trick, as you know, is to increase the thickness of the shim to account for the use of color filters on the M Monochrom. This is not required for the M9.
Using this 1976 Pop Photo test of a 50/2 Summicron, you can see a 0.08mm focus shift from blue to red. This is more than focus shift caused by stopping down the aperture! If you use an orange filter all the time, you want to increase the shim by 2/3rds of the total shift- about 0.06mm.
FOR MY OWN J3+, I might just put 1-layer of copper tape on the CAM to test with the M Monochrom. The copper tape comes off easily.
asiafish
All-Pro
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
- Name
- Andrew
I just sent you my 1937 for CLA, if that one is shimmed for the Mono with orange filter I'll use the new one on the M-E and call it a day.
At longer distances is depth of field sufficient at f/1.5 to cover focus shift caused by an orange or yellow filter? Also, am I correct in my understanding that using the J3+ without a filter on the MM will yield accurate focus just as it does on the M-E?
At longer distances is depth of field sufficient at f/1.5 to cover focus shift caused by an orange or yellow filter? Also, am I correct in my understanding that using the J3+ without a filter on the MM will yield accurate focus just as it does on the M-E?
The focus is good on the M Monochrom, but I tend to use it with the filters. One layer of copper tape will fix it for me, and does not require any change to the J-3+ itself. The lens has a 14-day return and two year warranty.
I will inquire with Lomo customer Service about how they can address this issue, if they have a local technician or can have the factory calibrate a few lenses for the M Monochrom. "in the day" everyone brought their Leica and lenses into the local technician to "Zero" them. Bill Pierce writes about this.
I will inquire with Lomo customer Service about how they can address this issue, if they have a local technician or can have the factory calibrate a few lenses for the M Monochrom. "in the day" everyone brought their Leica and lenses into the local technician to "Zero" them. Bill Pierce writes about this.
asiafish
All-Pro
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
- Name
- Andrew
If its accurate on the M9 I'll probably leave it as-is as I love the Sonnar look in color, and my existing Sonnars are great on the Monochrom (and M-E).
I'm guessing the difference is small enough to either be covered by depth of field at moderate distances or I'm not critical enough to care. Here is my 1937 CZJ on the M-E and my old MM (haven't fully tested the replacement yet).
L1003267.jpg by Andrew F, on Flickr
L1003317.jpg by Andrew F, on Flickr
Mrs Kimura by Andrew F, on Flickr
L1000231.jpg by Andrew F, on Flickr
I'm guessing the difference is small enough to either be covered by depth of field at moderate distances or I'm not critical enough to care. Here is my 1937 CZJ on the M-E and my old MM (haven't fully tested the replacement yet).
Focus shift and shift for spherical aberration are covered by the DOF, on a film camera you would never notice. With "Digital", pixel peeping is like putting everything under a microscope. I have to fiddle with a lens to be better than 0.01mm to "nail" the focus with pixel peeping. This never happened with film, you just could not magnify the image to the same degree. Does give me a reason to own more lenses...
asiafish
All-Pro
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
- Name
- Andrew
Well I've been very satisfied with the results from my three existing Sonar-type lenses both wide-open and at f/8, which are the only apertures I tend to use on these. I can't wait to try the "new" Jupiter 8 and J3+
Just in case people want to know...
I now have Twenty-One 5cm (or 50mm) F1.5 Sonnar formula lenses in Leica mount, and the Nikkor-SC 5cm F1.4 in Leica mount... spanning from 1934 through to 2016. Not quite as many 5cm F2's... only span from 1934 to the 1950s.
I also have a number of them in Contax and S-Mount.
BUT! I do NOT have a Tanar 5cm F1.5...
I now have Twenty-One 5cm (or 50mm) F1.5 Sonnar formula lenses in Leica mount, and the Nikkor-SC 5cm F1.4 in Leica mount... spanning from 1934 through to 2016. Not quite as many 5cm F2's... only span from 1934 to the 1950s.
I also have a number of them in Contax and S-Mount.
BUT! I do NOT have a Tanar 5cm F1.5...
This is with the 1934 5cm F1.5 Sonnar, wide-open on the M9.
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr
This is an 82-year old lens! Nickel coated, not chrome.
This would be from their 3rd year of production, the original batch was done in 5/1932. BUT- this lens from 1934 is the first batch that uses the same machining as the Jupiter-3. The rendering of the new Jupiter-3+ is faithful to the older Sonnars.
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr
This is an 82-year old lens! Nickel coated, not chrome.
This would be from their 3rd year of production, the original batch was done in 5/1932. BUT- this lens from 1934 is the first batch that uses the same machining as the Jupiter-3. The rendering of the new Jupiter-3+ is faithful to the older Sonnars.
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asiafish
All-Pro
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
- Name
- Andrew
Wow, and to think I'm amazed at the results from my merely 79-year-old lens.
I prefer modern lenses for travel, events and what-not, but when I know I will be shooting people with a Leica NOTHING beats these Sonnars.
I prefer modern lenses for travel, events and what-not, but when I know I will be shooting people with a Leica NOTHING beats these Sonnars.
asiafish
All-Pro
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
- Name
- Andrew
If this new lens wasn't so expensive I would love to cannibalize one to mount 1930s Zeiss glass in that brass mount.
I wonder if Lomo would sell it without the optics modules?
I wonder if Lomo would sell it without the optics modules?
I was just thinking I'd like about 20 of these focus mounts, assuming the threads are the same as the original. I'm not taking mine apart...
I will get some close-ups of the lens later, we're getting back to normal after the Blizzard.
The build quality is very high, this is a "they build them BETTER than they used to" lens. The focus action is completely smooth, no "wow and flutter" as you go across the range. No slop in the focus, which means the guide screws fit tight in the guide rails where the helicals are held together. I've replaced guide screws on some J-3's to fix this culprit, and on others just had to fill the guide rails with vacuum pump grease to dampen the play. Someone was paying attention to this area, I've written about it before. The focus is spot on with my M9 across range meaning the focal length has tight tolerance to the Leica spec. I need to get the accuracy within 0.01mm to hit the focus this close. WITH THAT STATED: on the M Monochrom, using an orange filter, you would need to increase the thickness of the shim to account for longitudinal chromatic aberration. I have one layer of copper tape on my 50/1.1 Nokton and 35/1.2 Nokton. I will do this with this J-3+. The sharpness of the lens increases dramatically on the M Monochrom because you get rid of the softness caused by chromatic aberration.
This is with the 1934 5cm F2 CZJ Sonnar, converted to Leica mount. Wide-Open, orange filter.
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr
I held the J-3+ lens and my early LTM Nikkor-SC 5cm F1.4 in each hand- they are about the same weight.
I need to find a scale, and then take it off the M9...
The small set screws look like the ones that Zeiss used in the 1930s. I have a collection of set screws from German, Japanese, and Russian lenses.
I will get some close-ups of the lens later, we're getting back to normal after the Blizzard.
The build quality is very high, this is a "they build them BETTER than they used to" lens. The focus action is completely smooth, no "wow and flutter" as you go across the range. No slop in the focus, which means the guide screws fit tight in the guide rails where the helicals are held together. I've replaced guide screws on some J-3's to fix this culprit, and on others just had to fill the guide rails with vacuum pump grease to dampen the play. Someone was paying attention to this area, I've written about it before. The focus is spot on with my M9 across range meaning the focal length has tight tolerance to the Leica spec. I need to get the accuracy within 0.01mm to hit the focus this close. WITH THAT STATED: on the M Monochrom, using an orange filter, you would need to increase the thickness of the shim to account for longitudinal chromatic aberration. I have one layer of copper tape on my 50/1.1 Nokton and 35/1.2 Nokton. I will do this with this J-3+. The sharpness of the lens increases dramatically on the M Monochrom because you get rid of the softness caused by chromatic aberration.
This is with the 1934 5cm F2 CZJ Sonnar, converted to Leica mount. Wide-Open, orange filter.
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr
I held the J-3+ lens and my early LTM Nikkor-SC 5cm F1.4 in each hand- they are about the same weight.
I need to find a scale, and then take it off the M9...
The small set screws look like the ones that Zeiss used in the 1930s. I have a collection of set screws from German, Japanese, and Russian lenses.
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