Fashionable lenses which have been promoted as 'gems' on Youtube, tend to be offered for steep prices (some crazily high) - and very much a case of diminishing returns.
Pancolar 80mm lenses, for example, are regularly offered for $900+, which is 3-4x the price of a nice used Contax Sonnar T* 85mm.
I recently sold a Pancolar 50mm for £129 and it was snapped up so quickly, I probably could have got more for it.
The exterior differences between, for example, some Helios lenses (swirly bokeh) are not always obvious.
There have been a number of instances of fake vintage lenses (swopped front ring ) which have been brought to people's attention on this site.
IMHO, for the uninitiated non-expert, best bet is to buy from thrift shops and try them out and keep them until you are lucky enough to find something you like more.
Nothing quite like picking up a really interesting lens for £5.