Micro 4/3 Micro 4/3 samples

Turbogirlie

Regular
Location
North West Herefordshire, UK
Real Name
Karen
Kaz, as long as you keep Auto ISO limited to 1600, you should be fine - and that's enough for a lot of situations. My OM-D E-M5 III uses the same sensor as your E-M1 II - and it's a solid one. You can even get away with ISO 3200 for most things - I often shoot high contrast in darker conditions and don't like too much noise in uniform dark surfaces, hence the 1600 limit. I used to cap older 12MP sensors at ISO 800 and keep ISO as low as possible - but this 20MP sensor is much better, and much more forgiving.

M.
Hi Matt. Thanks - mirrorless is a little different to DSLR isn't it?
 

Turbogirlie

Regular
Location
North West Herefordshire, UK
Real Name
Karen
Yes, Kaz, to be honest I hardly ever change ISO manually. Auto probably handles 95% of my shots. I usually have an ISO limit set to 1600 on M4/3 and it seems to work pretty well.
Hi Martin. Thanks for the info, that's great. Just need to re-educate myself to trust some of the camera settings. I did a course many years ago with The Photography Institute which encouraged me to use manual settings, which works well on the older Olympus cameras I'm used to!
 
Location
Switzerland
Real Name
Matt
Hi Matt. Thanks - mirrorless is a little different to DSLR isn't it?
Different yes, but not necessarily better (any more) - it heavily depends on the mirrorless. My best low light camera is the Nikon Z 6, but not by much - because the D750 is still so good. The most surprising camera in that respect, however, was the rather humble Nikon Z 50 - it punches way(!) above its class in terms of low light performance; it's almost there up until ISO 3200 when compared to FF, even the Z 6. But - almost, not quite. However, the Z 50 outperforms my former APS-C champion, the Nikon D5500 I used to have. So, it's not the "SLR" part, it's the sensor - as a whole, not just "bigger is better". My Sony A7 II performs no better up to ISO 1600 than my A6000 - and both are outpaced by the Nikon Z 50. That's one of the reaons I'll sell the A7 II ... once it's feasible again around here.

That said, the latest :mu43: 20MP sensors are still the best in that system when it comes to low light shooting. ISO 1600 is really usable, no real qualms. It's not APS-C class - but close enough - so close that I'd actually pick my E-M5 III over the Fujifilm X-E3; performance is certainly good enough, and I.B.I.S. does the rest. And remember, your E-M1 II sports the same sensor!

All in all, you should be fine with the E-M1 II - it's a great camera, especially for the price. To my eye, it has no major weaknesses as a main camera - except in extreme cases.

M.
 

Turbogirlie

Regular
Location
North West Herefordshire, UK
Real Name
Karen
A couple from today. Thanks to Matt and Martin for the advice. Set the ISO to Auto, with a limit of 6400 as it was such a grey day.

The edge of the cloud bank.
_OI000077.JPG


Stream beside the road. Love the I.S. on the E-M1 II - this was hand held and a 1 second exposure.
_OI000074.JPG
 

theoldsmithy

Hall of Famer
Location
Cheshire, England
Real Name
Martin Connolly
My E-P5 came with a 14-42 II lens, which I was planning to sell. I may still do so, but it's not too bad and quite a useful little lens to have in the kitbag. I need to try it on some different subject matter before deciding. These are all from the raw files. I prefer the way Lightroom handles these to the JPEGs, which is strange as I generally really like Olympus JPEGs.
20210223-P2230006.jpg
20210223-P2230007.jpg
20210223-P2230012.jpg
 

Turbogirlie

Regular
Location
North West Herefordshire, UK
Real Name
Karen

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