Sony My first f 1.8 prime lens set.

[L0n3Gr3yW0lf]

I am so excited that my hands won't stop shaking for a couple of hours (though they do that when I have low glycemia or high amounts of anxiety). I just received from MPB, in Like New condition, the Samyang AF 35mm f 1.8 and the Tokina atx-m 85mm f 1.8 FE. Please don't take this as an endorsement for these lenses until I have gone through a few handling opportunities with them.
For build quality, I am pretty happy with how they feel in hand. The Tokina atx-m 85mm f 1.8 is a very chunky boy, very solid and re-assuring weight at 645 grams, built out of metal, it feels like a Russian T-54 tank (I played with one in real life as a kid when I grew up at the military base). I do wish it had an AF/MF switch BUT given the DoF at f 1.8 and the 85mm FL I wouldn't trust my manual focus ability as much as the Autofocus of Sony's camera. The lens hood is made of plastic and the black shade of colour doesn't match the lens but it's not worth thinking about it. The lens came with the latest 0.2 firmware which is supposed to fix rare situations where the lens freezes the camera and to reset it would need the batter to be taken out.
The build quality of the Samyang AF 35mm f 1.8 lens is a bit more plasticky, more so than my Tamron 28-75mm f 2.8 G2, but I am not bothered by that since it's so light and small. I do like the feel of the Custom switch on it, with a very reassuring click to it but not overly loud, and I would use the switch to change to MF more often on this lens for a close-up of flowers and insects. The lens hood feels and looks better built than the Tokina (with a matching colour to the lens) and it clicks a bit better (feeling) as well (though it takes a bit less force to lock it in place than my Tamron 28-75mm f 2.8 G2). The lens came with 0.2 firmware (0.3 is the latest one with quite a few improvements but I don't have the Samyang Lens Station to update just yet).

I am going to take both lenses out for a spin today. I never had lenses with such DoF (f 1.8 on 35mm FF, I have owned Micro Four Thirds at f 1.8/f 1.7 but that doesn't compete even with my Tamron f 2.8 zoom). Here are a few comparison sizes with my other lenses:

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The Tokina atx-m 85mm f 1.8 FE is quite close in size to my Tamron 28-75mm f 2.8 G2 lens and it's actually heavier.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The Samyang AF 35mm f 1.8 is actually freaking adorable in size and I love the carrying case it comes with, it's so compact that I would love all my lenses to have one like that, especially if I carry them in my pocket as I usually do when I am out for street photography or just casual shooting.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

At 210 grams it is the lightest lens I have currently and it will be quite easy to keep it in my pocket, I may even leave the lens hood at home to keep it compact.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

I love how well it fits. I did notice the red ring is a bit darker than the orange ring on the camera but that's nitpicking.

I did take a couple of snapshots of my little princess while sitting at the desk:

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

I missed the focus on the eye but I am happy wit the look at f 1.8 and I can't wait to get more wide angle close ups.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

I really love this one and is exactly what I hoped to get at 35mm f 1.8 and it feels quite a lot different and better than f 2.8, not just with lower ISO and/or higher shutter speed but also DoF. I know that so much "bokeh" has been done to death at this point but it is new to me and I hope to enjoy it for a few years before I get too tired of it. The only tempting f 1.4 aspect would have been for a 35/40mm BUT I think I can be happy with f 1.8 as a start and see how things go for now.

As for price, at 315 £ for each lens, I consider it well worth a try especially since portrait photography is a lot less often I do compare to landscape and wildlife. The only thing I think I might be annoyed with (for now) is going to be the LoCA as I can get quite annoyed with having to defringe the background and foreground but it is a compromise for the lower price/grade lense and the cost compared to the GM and f 1.4/1.2 third party lenses.

 

[gryphon1911]

I've had Samyang/Rokinon and Tokina lenses in the past. they have been good performers for their price range. Took a Tokina 11-16/2.8 to Yellowstone and it was a workhorse of a lens there.

The Samyang/Rokinon are sharp little manual focusers. I appreciated the dampened focusing rings on them...but some did not have clickable aperture rings, which I was not a fan since I do not do a lot of video...a clicky aperture is my preference.

Looking forward to your continued impressions of these lenses.

 

[Brownie]

You're very likely to love the Samyang, they've gone beyond the 'for their price range' qualifier and are producing some very nice lenses.

 

[The Electric Squirrel]

You're very likely to love the Samyang, they've gone beyond the 'for their price range' qualifier and are producing some very nice lenses.

Yup, I can agree with this here... I love my 45/1.8 and especially the 75/1.8. The fortyfive doesn't quite have the punch and magic of the 55/1.8 Sonnar, but it has the easier to use focal length, and still renders really nicely. It does sometimes lose contrast against bright lights, but when used to advantage that can give images a little more romantic look. Still, it's a flaw, and maybe the weakest point of that lens. Other than that, it's small, lightweight, really sharp and fun to use. And cheap-as-chips.

The 75 also has a very usable focal length, that at least I find often easier to work with than the more usual 85mm. And the rendering at times can be very zeiss-like. Lovely colours and contrast.

Both are plasticky and cheap, but so what. I love 'em. They balance so nicely on the a7C. I was going to get the tiny-series 35/1.8 also, but they proved to be unobtainium here a year ago, so the shop sold me a Sony 35/1.8 instead for not much more.

 

[The Electric Squirrel]

Oh, and I forgot to congratulate you, Ovi, for those lenses. How rude of me...

BTW I believe we lack a showcase for all of those lenses, wink-wink nod-nod...

 

[L0n3Gr3yW0lf]

Oh, and I forgot to congratulate you, Ovi, for those lenses. How rude of me...

BTW I believe we lack a showcase for all of those lenses, wink-wink nod-nod...

Thank you, and since it's been winked at me I will make 2 showcases for the lenses (if there are non open for them).

Yup, I can agree with this here... I love my 45/1.8 and especially the 75/1.8. The fortyfive doesn't quite have the punch and magic of the 55/1.8 Sonnar, but it has the easier to use focal length, and still renders really nicely. It does sometimes lose contrast against bright lights, but when used to advantage that can give images a little more romantic look. Still, it's a flaw, and maybe the weakest point of that lens. Other than that, it's small, lightweight, really sharp and fun to use. And cheap-as-chips.

The 75 also has a very usable focal length, that at least I find often easier to work with than the more usual 85mm. And the rendering at times can be very zeiss-like. Lovely colours and contrast.

Both are plasticky and cheap, but so what. I love 'em. They balance so nicely on the a7C. I was going to get the tiny-series 35/1.8 also, but they proved to be unobtainium here a year ago, so the shop sold me a Sony 35/1.8 instead for not much more.

I was thinking and tempted to get the Samyang AF 75mm f 1.8 because I love the compact size and portability that would match the 35mm f 1.8 BUT I decided to go against that because it overlaps with the end of my Tamron 28-75mm f 2.8 G2 and I know that f 1.8 is more different than f 2.8 but getting the Tokina atx-m 85mm f 1.8 adds just a bit more different from the extra focal length on top. And the consensus seems to be that the Tokina is actually a bit brighter than f 1.8 but is "locked" by software to start from f 1.8, the size and weight of the lens seem to point to an f 1.4 optical formulae. Its twin is the Viltrox AF 85mm f 1.8 which bare the same optical design and body design (but with different lens coating) and there are other Chinese lens brands that seem to come out from the same optical design. Such is the case, speculatively speaking, then someone is selling the design of this lens to anyone who is interested in making the lens hence the similarities ... and best of all they are all competing with each other on price which makes it better for the consumers to have more option and different price brackets that are always cheaper than 1st party designs.
The MTF Chart and optical formulae from Viltrox's website:

I couldn't find the MTF chart or the optical design on Tokina's own website but I found it on a reviewer's website:

Putting them side by side they are nearly identical:

What might account for some of the difference is most likely different lens coatings for the elements inside, which changes colour rendition, light transmition, reflectivity and light fall-off.

 

[L0n3Gr3yW0lf]

I have used the lenses a little bit for the last few days, more the Samyang AF 35mm f 1.8 and the Tokina atx-m 85mm f 1.8.
I will start my observations with the Tokina, the good, the bad and the ugly:
*The lens is fast focusing, even with the ageing Sony a7R II, it tends to be accurate BUT in low light, it can't keep up with action and it will fall behind especially with subjects running towards the camera.
*Because of the AF of the camera my hit rate in burst is very low, which took multiple tries to get a sharp image where there are some images that are slightly out of focus and only one sharp image.
*I do believe that the issue is more with the Sony a7R II's more pedestrian PDAF, being the 2nd generation of the a7 family (the original a7 and a7 II are the same 1st generation).
*In bright direct sunlight both the AF-S and AF-C are accurate as well as fast, snapping in place in less than a second if the subject is not moving unless it's going from infinity to minimum focus and vice versa.
*I had no lock-up issues so far but it's too early to tell if there are any issues like this.
*The build quality is quite nice in the field, with a thick grip I don't feel it to be front heavy, the lens hood does seem to soft lock in place but I haven't had any issues with it falling off or moving accidentally.
*Image quality, it is very sharp in the centre (if the AF doesn't mess up the image) and very good at the midframe, at the corners it does fall out but it's of little concern to me. The sharpness is very clean with no harsh renditions of the edges (as some of the cheaper lenses can do), the transition between in and out of focus is very smooth. I can see why people like the rendition of this lens compared to Sony (for example). The bokeh is smooth and quite rounded up to 75% of the frame and as the edge of the frame it turns oval but not lemon shape like the Sony 85mm f 1.8 FE. I quite love the rendition of this lens and it's a significant improvement over the Tamron 28-75mm f 2.8 G2 at 75mm.
*The downside of the image quality on the lens is the chromatic aberrations, it has some purple and green fringing at the edges of high-contrast areas, and from the centre to the edges, there's no place where it won't show up. Now it's not as bad as I have seen on some Micro Four-Thirds lenses but it is fixable with less penalty of colour desaturation on the edges. The Lightroom Manual Eye Drop for the Chromatic Aberration Correction will work on most of it except for the last 80% of the more intense areas, which will require a manual Brush with +100 Defringe.
*One thing that is disappointing is that the Automatic Chromatic Aberration in Lightroom is that close to nothing to fix it, at best I have seen about a 33% reduction of the effect.
*The Lens Profile Correction in Lightroom does not do a lot to the image, a slight pincushion correction and a mind vignetting correction (maybe half a stop EV in the corners) so that means the lens is pretty well corrected (which is not a surprise given the size of the lens)
*This lens seems to be quite flare-resistant, I haven't tested it extensively but with street lights, I haven't managed to get it to flare with the compositions I wanted to get. I will need to test it with sunsets and strong backlights. The pictures at night were made with no lens hood on to push the lens a bit farther.
*The only thing I have found most frustrating with the lens (besides AF) is sometimes there's a very dark allowing around bright subjects that is so difficult to correct and so noticeable when it's not. I haven't found the source of this problem so it will have to be a long-term investigation into it.

Here are some samples of images made with Tokina atx-m 85mm f 1.8 FE, all the images are edited in Lightroom, some cropped and some passed through Topaz DeNoise AI, so they are not straight out of the camera (if you want that I can provide the unedited resized images for that) but these are examples of what I can/want to get out of the lens and camera combo:

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

At 1.5 meters distance, the sharpness is very well maintained wide open, but the combo did have a tendency to focus on her nose more than her eyes.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The kind of image I was hoping to get from an 85mm f 1.8, is a lot easier to get than 75mm f 2.8 or 150mm f 5 of my current setup. The distance was about 5 meters.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The AF-C was struggling to keep up with the dogs running around and I got only 3 sharp images out of more than 30 images. The light was a bit low and they were staying in the shady areas as well.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Trying to get her to run towards me was instantly easy compared to the Tokina trying to keep her in focus.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

But it is the kind of image I dreamed of and what I would like to offer as a Pet Portrait Photography service, I just wish the AF-C was more reliable than having to chance it on burst and get lucky with one in focus.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

I do love the rendition of this lens so much and I can see why people have recommended it as an alternative, even cheaper, to the Sony 85mm f 1.8 FE.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

In direct sunlight I got a higher rate of sharp images, I got 6 out of 13. I have a feeling that Sony cameras from 3rd generation of a7 and a9 or newer would work significantly better.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The subject separation is quite impressive and easy to achieve, making even the most boring subjects stand out. I don't think I would need an f 1.4 lens at this focal length, f 1.8 is more than enough.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Another image that was very difficult to get because of the AF-C speed of this combination, I had to do 5 passes before I got a sharp image though it wasn't as close as I would have hoped. Still, the 3D separation is just delicious to stare at with a very smooth background and foreground gradation.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

At longer distances, like this ~10 meters one, the rendition feels a bit more like the 75mm f 2.8 end of my Tamron at 5 meters or longer.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

But at 3 meters it is just exquisite and something I would not easily give up on when it comes to portraits that is.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

It can work as a street photography lens for the days when I feel too shy and overrun by anxiety

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

It can even work as a wildlife lens if wildlife is used to humans or even friendly. I can only imagine the opportunities I could have for Squirrel Super Separation

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

My first ever Viking Swan, The House of Leaf, ready for war. You can notice here (on the swans on the back) the dark halos around them.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

If there is enough separation from DoF on the subject the halo can be reduced by it takes some effort to use Adjustment Brush with -100 Texture, +100 Noise Reduction and -100 Sharpness to blur it out without being too noticeable. I also kept the flies on the top left side of the image to show just how sharp this lens can be.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

I have a feeling I would love a 135mm f 1.8 lens for wildlife of medium to large size for some amazing 3D separation, a lens that I don't think can be replicated in the smaller sensor formats.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

I absolutely adore this image if not for the halos I mentioned before, and the ones you see are after a lot of attempts to defringe a strong green Chromatic Aberration, blur the strong outline and brighten up very dark outer edges to a very light inner edges.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

With a street light just outside the frame, I haven't seen any lowering of contrast, veiling or flaring.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

With the street lamp at the edge of the frame, there are no significant issues with flare though it does show a little bit of light escaping the source next to it (which doesn't look bad to me).

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Backing away to make the light sources smaller did not make any flaring in the lens (the concentric lines are from oversharpening from the sensor, which is a frustration of mine shooting in low light).

 

[L0n3Gr3yW0lf]

More samples from the Tokina atx-m 85mm f 1.8 FE

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The lens is very sharp even in low light, with great details within the brickwork where it was illuminated by just one flood light.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Similar to the one above.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Very beautiful 3D separation, if not for the strong orange cast.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The AF-S was quick and decisive on the small lights above the door of the house in the middle, I didn't realise that the kids on the left side were within the same focal plane, colours are very accurate as well.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Lots of details in the low light, and the focus was precise and snappy.

 

[L0n3Gr3yW0lf]

Now the Samyang AF 35mm f 1.8:
*Very compact and light, it has become my default lens to have on the camera when I go out unless I expect a variety of opportunities that require more focal ranges.
*The plastic build does not bother me at all, it still feels solid and I would not bat an eye about using it in any situation. The lens hood snaps in place with a more reassuring click than my Tokina atx-m 85mm f 1.8 or Tamron 28-75mm f 2.8 G2. With the lens hood on the lens feels a bit bigger than I prefer so I tend to not use the lens hood unless I expect rain (I live in the UK after all ). The Custom switch feels reassuring when I move it and it snaps in place but it is low profile and it won't distract your hand if you hold the lens with your left hand. I do like the red ring, it looks sexy
*The autofocus is very snappy and accurate, in bright light is basically instant. In low light, it can slow down. With action, it won't be able to keep up with small subjects, like my little dog, but I haven't tried with larger subjects yet. The lens is faster focusing than the Tokina but still not as fast as my Tamron 28-75mm f 2.8 G2.
*The image quality is outstanding, the sharpness is well beyond my Tamron at the centre and excellent at the edges. Stopping down it gets better and the peak seems to be f 5.6 which is my default aperture for street photography. I haven't noticed any decentering but I do need to test the field of focus, I really hope it will be flat.
*There are Chromatic Aberrations on the edges and high contrast, the Lens Profile Correction does almost nothing to fix it so it will have to be done in Manual with the Eye Dropper, with fixes most of it but some may still linger, in form of deep pink and some green colour. Sometimes it does show up in orange/yellow cast which I suspect is Longitudinal Chromatic Aberration.
*I haven't seen any significant barrel distortion and the Lens Profile fixes any that would be there. I haven't seen any significant vignetting either but the corners can get noisy, especially in low light, shadows or high ISO (sorry, no free lunch, but it's to be expected for such a small lens).

Here are some samples of images made with the lens:

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The Colour rendition is very good, I like it quite a bit.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Wide-angle portraits of a dog the size of a football are not particularly easy, the autofocus was struggling to find her when she was very small in the frame.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The hit rate was higher than the Tokina atx-m 85mm f 1.8 FE but I still wish it was a bit higher, most of the fault I do believe is with the Sony a7r II more than the lenses.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The Samyang AF 35mm f 1.8 seems to be less dependent on the light than Tokina and more on the size of the subject if it's in motion.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

I do love the 3D separation of this lens as well BUT at a closer than 1-meter distance there is some softness from fringing, cyan for the background and brownish for the foreground elements. They are more difficult to correct than the Purple/Green ones from Tokina.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

At distances beyond 3 meters, the 3D separation is lesser in the background but still very present in the foreground.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Sharpness is excellent even wide open but it can fall off a bit past the 80% from the centre, but still good.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

At longer focus distances the fringing turns a bit more green in the background but only slightly more purple in the foreground.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

For a 35mm lens there's decent wideness for street photography but at 42 Megapickle Ricks there's some room for cropping towards a 50 to 60mm effect, but of course, you don't get the same DoF and separation effect of, say, Sony 55mm f 1.8.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Very beautiful colours, accurate. The minimum focus distance is not outstanding (like the Sony 35mm f 1.8 FE) and the images soften up a bit but I have the Tamron 28-75mm f 2.8 G2 for that, for now.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The lens is sharp enough that it shows moire even towards the edge of the frame in the roof beams and on the fence in front of the tree.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

I can't wait to get more wide-angle portraits with lovely separation.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

The lens did not keep up with the focus, probably because of the backlight, but I wanted this composition so much, I tried 3 different attempts to get her sharp as well as get her in the reflection of the puddle. I turned it into black and white because the colours were distracting.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

When f 2.8 is not enough for subject separation f 1.8 can work but I do lust for f 1.4 sometimes, especially at the 35mm focal length because it's more difficult to achieve it than a nifty fifty.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Again, I do love the colours of this lens, they pop out without having to saturate them in Lightroom.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Hand-held low shutter speed is a bit easier when the combo is a bit lighter than a zoom. The extra effort comes into finding the right composition with a prime lens.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

35mm prime would not be considered a wildlife lens but the 3D separation looks quite interesting while keeping a context of the surrounding.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Even at a longer distance, the foreground can be separated a bit to give the image a bit of anchoring to the centre of attention.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Flaring can show in the frame, I haven't tested the lens on the edge of the frame or outside of it.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

I am still getting used to not having wider DoF at f 5.6 and medium to long focal distance (coming from the Micro Four Thirds world).

 

[John King]

Ovi, congrats on the new lenses.

To get similar DoF to a mFTs lens at f/5.6, you need to stop down to f/11 with a 135 format camera lens. This causes its own set of problems.

When old photography books talk about the "depth of field problem", they are referring to how to get enough of it ...

 

[L0n3Gr3yW0lf]

Ovi, congrats on the new lenses.

To get similar DoF to a mFTs lens at f/5.6, you need to stop down to f/11 with a 135 format camera lens. This causes its own set of problems.

When old photography books talk about the "depth of field problem", they are referring to how to get enough of it ...

Thank you. I never owned a f 1.4 or f 1.2 lens from Micro Four Thirds but after owning the Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 G2 the look of it would be similar to the Pro primes or Panasonic Leica primes.
I know many photographers have outgrown or even grew tired of seeing/hearing about very small DoF images, since I never experienced it it is new to me and compelling, for now, (but not above the madness of 1.500-3.000 £ primes). I expect I will outgrow it too some days but it may take longer thanks to the benefits of Eye Tracking, Face Tracking, Real Time Tracking.

 

[The Electric Squirrel]

Thin DOF is just another tool in the bucket. Not all tools fit all purposes and neither are they always easy to master...

One can also grow a bit tired of too much sharpness. And this time I don't even mean sharpening taken overboard. Nope, I mean for example landscapes are often shot sharp front to back, and many consider it even a hallmark of a good landscape image. But is it really? Since sharpness is one of the cues we use to sense depth from a two dimensional representation of a three dimensional world, not using it properly doesn't make sense to me. Sometimes sharpness all over might work, other times it might actually be a distraction. In my worthless opinion...

 

[L0n3Gr3yW0lf]

Thin DOF is just another tool in the bucket. Not all tools fit all purposes and neither are they always easy to master...

One can also grow a bit tired of too much sharpness. And this time I don't even mean sharpening taken overboard. Nope, I mean for example landscapes are often shot sharp front to back, and many consider it even a hallmark of a good landscape image. But is it really? Since sharpness is one of the cues we use to sense depth from a two dimensional representation of a three dimensional world, not using it properly doesn't make sense to me. Sometimes sharpness all over might work, other times it might actually be a distraction. In my worthless opinion...

I understand the feeling, infinite DoF has been the bane of my existence every time share pictures with more old school mindset photographers and worse of all judges.
I agree and I believe that having depth from DoF and not just composition is essential to most landscape images, I can hardly count more then a handful of pictures where infinite DoF was doing justice to the scene.

Funny thing about this is that, it seems, it takes famous Internet photographers that make YouTube videos and get their video shared in "photography articles" (*cough* Pentapixel *cough*, sorry, I think I caught a bullshirus) to actually be even considered not breaking cardinal rule or expection of a landscape photographer. (I saw that article 2 weeks ago but never bothered to read it)

 

[John King]

You do not need super-fast lenses in order to achieve subject isolation, shallow DoF or nice bokeh.

You do have to understand the relationship between aperture, FL, camera to subject distance and subject to background distance. As an example, a photo I may have already posted here (can't remember), Prunus blossom:

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

And:

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Note the apertures.

 

[L0n3Gr3yW0lf]

Another update on using the Samyang AF 35mm f 1.8 FE and Tokina atx-m 85mm f 1.8 FE. I had a chance to use it for about an hour at a Halloween party and I was very pleasantly surprised. If I take the Sony a7R II out of the autofocus evaluation, the lenses by themselves were very snappy and accurate in low light. They, both, would find the point of interest and focus on it without hesitation, AF-S and AF-C. (The only issues were with Sony a7R II not finding the eyes or the face very well or focusing on what I did not want.) The rendition indoors and low light feels, somehow, even better and wonderful.

 

[John King]

Very happy that they are working out well for you, Ovi.
It's always very nice when something works out the way you wanted .