Pareidolia (Faces in Things)

Location
Memphis, TN
Name
Brent
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John King

Member of SOFA
Location
Beaumaris, Melbourne, Australia
Name
John ...
Like F11? I wasn't aiming for the embryo thingy, I just noticed it. Does it mean most of the flower would have been sharp? I'm still learning
If you're asking me, Lucien, then yes.

Depending on the lens, I would push that to f/16 on an APSC camera. I think (don't know) that the Nikon f/2.8 90mm is a macro or close-up lens, and a very good one at that. Should not get noticeable diffraction softening at f/16, and you might be able to push it to f/22. Experiment, and see if there is any perceptible softening of the image when viewed at 100% on your computer monitor.
 

lucien

Hall of Famer
I will try that approach with the macro's I'm going to lose a lot of light like that. Do I use an external flash or the on board? The lens is a Tamron 90 f2.8 no vibration reduction at all. Macro yes but 11 inches closest
 

John King

Member of SOFA
Location
Beaumaris, Melbourne, Australia
Name
John ...
I will try that approach with the macro's I'm going to lose a lot of light like that. Do I use an external flash or the on board? The lens is a Tamron 90 f2.8 no vibration reduction at all. Macro yes but 11 inches closest
An on-board flash, or the tiny ones that fit a number of the more modern Olympus cameras, can be surprisingly useful. I've tested the FL-LM2 and FL-LM3 flashes, and by ramping the ISO to 800, can get a usable amount of light out to about 9 metres. Pretty useful, that.

For more serious flash work, I have an FL-35R from my FTs days. After that, it's my studio strobes. With home made diffuser:

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