Paul I think he started out with the EP-2 but writes this article from the perspective of his EP-3. Could be wrong but that's the impression I get from his opening preamble.hmm
I've been struggling to "get" this technique since I first got my E-P2 and have read a few articles ... I think I'm finally getting there.
I liked this chap's style, although I found his English a little confusing occasionally (although I'll criticise properly when my Finnish is as good ) ... plus his E-P2 seems to have settings mine doesn't?
Thanks for the blinkies tip Norman. Let us know how you get on with the adjusting your contrast, sharpness and saturation in camera. I would have thought this shouldn't have any affect on the RAW file, but be very curious to know if your results yield anything different....as this would open the doors to another world of in-camera micro-adjustment, and possibly more latitude with the ultimate RAW files.Nice link. I used to ETTR with my GH2 and it did help me to better control the noise. I set the camera up so that it showed a short preview picture with "blinkies" turned on and from previous experiments with Photoshop RAW I got to know what level of "blinkies" I could recover in processing. I've yet to try out similar experiments with my 5N or GRDIV - must get around to testing them out.
Something else I'm curious to explore is adjusting contrast, sharpness and saturation in camera and seeing just how much they affect the raw file..
Great addition to this subject Olli. Thanks mate Now I wonder who will be the first SC manufacturer to cash-in on LL's thinking here. I'd like to put even money on Fuji and Sony ....and a dollar on the long odds that Pentax is the first to innovate...
Funny I also wrote the same concern on that blog link. The technique to me is really not holding much benefit to acheive the lower noise at higher ISO, specially when ISO is increased for quick exposures (freeze motion, hand-shake reduction etc) however it can be used even on very low ISO or base ISOs to reduce noise in latest M4/3 where base ISO is already high (starting 200 in some case) AND specially where you are not already worried for blown-up highlights, again mostly in Oly Pen sensors.The noise reduction example doesn't really add up for me. If he can afford to hand-hold the ETTR image at 1/15 sec using ISO 1600, why does the non-ETTR image need a shutter speed of 1/50? Surely it could be shot at 1/15 and ISO 400 which would dramatically change the noise levels (certainly on a 12MP m4/3 camera!). The theory appears correct: less noise for equal ISO values, but in practical terms you can use lower ISOs when you aren't over-exposing anyway.
I can only really see the technique working for images which don't have a large variance in exposure across the frame i.e. where you CAN overexpose without seriously clipping highlights.
Your right, I tried numerous combinations and shot the same scene - all pictures looked the same! So I guess these adjustments are purely for your previewing pleasure only.Thanks for the blinkies tip Norman. Let us know how you get on with the adjusting your contrast, sharpness and saturation in camera. I would have thought this shouldn't have any affect on the RAW file, but be very curious to know if your results yield anything different....as this would open the doors to another world of in-camera micro-adjustment, and possibly more latitude with the ultimate RAW files.
I first became aware of the article quoted by olli some time ago. With some nice cloud formations today I decided to use my Sekonic L-508 spotmeter and then manually set the exposure on my GF1 with the data obtained from the spotmeter which was set to the same iso as the camera.