Fuji Raw or jpeg still confused...

S

SimpleGus

Regular
Hi everyone. And happy new year from Sweden.

After 6months with my fuji I haven't come to the end of how to shoot. Raw or jpeg.
After looking through my pictures with both of them I can sum up the fact that I'm putting a lot of work with the raw files just to get close to the standard provia setting that I feel suit my style best. Not too overcooked.

And due to the non stabilization of the lens the camera tends to need ISO 3200 very often indoors which leads me to another de-noising procedure...

As you can see I'm pretty much set what I'm leaning towards. I think I leave the raw boat for a while. And yes I know I can shoot both, but then I have to handle the under exposed raw file due to the auto DR. That sucks.

So x100owners, what's your thoughts and how is your journey through this?
I leave you with a jpeg provia here that shows my adoration for the fuji jpeg engine. Auto DR and auto ISO is something special indeed.

View attachment 3048
 

Attachments

  • ImageUploadedByFujiXspot1389043598.007767.jpg
    ImageUploadedByFujiXspot1389043598.007767.jpg
    117.1 KB · Views: 647
I used to have both X100 and X100S cameras -- but the question is simply not camera specific.

There should be no confusion: shoot what suits you. For my urbex material I often have brutal dynamic range and RAW is needed. But I shoot RAW+JPG FINE and if JPG works I use that -- if not I do the RAW work needed.

I shall emphasize a few things here:

  • There is NO VIRTUE in shooting RAW
  • There is NO VIRTUE in shooting JPG
  • There is NO VIRTUE in shooting film
The bottom line is this: you're making an image. Use whatever serves that and don't spend ANY time agonizing about what you SHOULD do, if you like what you are getting. Sometimes people make the choice seem like you are not a "real" photographer if you don't settle for one or the other but that is pure-D bull crap. Process simply doesn't matter -- the end result does.

Don't worry, make pictures [goes off whistling a Bobby McFerrin tune...]
 
flysurfer said:
FINE+RAW all the way to make as many different JPEGs as one likes.
Click to expand...

Rico,

When developing in camera, do you attach to a monitor to the camera or can you get enough detail from the LCD?. I'm really trying to simplify my process.

Thanks for all your educational efforts, and my apologies if this is in your book which I have read.
 
flysurfer said:
FINE+RAW all the way to make as many different JPEGs as one likes.
Click to expand...

Yeah that would be ideal. But as I wrote, when u set the jpeg to auto dr the raw will be under exposed by two stops. And thats not ideal for me at least. I have to fix the dr to 100 in the jpeg to get things right but then I sortof loose the meaning by using the jpeg and fujis dr boost...

Sent from my GT-I9300 using FujiXspot mobile app
 
entropic remnants said:
I

Don't worry, make pictures [goes off whistling a Bobby McFerrin tune...]
Click to expand...

Yeah true. But im just curious about x owners thinking in this matter. My brain says raw. Just to be on the safe side when a GOOD shot is taken. By my workflow says stay jpeg, coz they look good and there are a bit room left over for processsing in the jpeg aswell..


Sent from my GT-I9300 using FujiXspot mobile app
 
SimpleGus said:
Yeah that would be ideal. But as I wrote, when u set the jpeg to auto dr the raw will be under exposed by two stops. And thats not ideal for me at least. I have to fix the dr to 100 in the jpeg to get things right but then I sortof loose the meaning by using the jpeg and fujis dr boost...
Click to expand...

This isn't an underexposure (as in wrong exposure), it's actually the correct ETTR exposure in order to protect vital highlights (at least if done right). So this should not be an issue, as every external RAW conveter (except Aperture) can easily deal with DR RAWs. Simply adjust the various exposure sliders/functions of your RAW converter as required.
 
ebouwens said:
Rico,

When developing in camera, do you attach to a monitor to the camera or can you get enough detail from the LCD?. I'm really trying to simplify my process.

Thanks for all your educational efforts, and my apologies if this is in your book which I have read.
Click to expand...

I usually transfer the JPEGs to Aperture and view them, then delete everything I don't want to keep. I then also delete everything except for the keeper RAWs from the SD card and redevelop the remaining keeper RAWs in the camera with optimized settings based on what I see on my calibrated monitor. With a little bit of experience, I know what to do to make the JPEG better in the camera, and I often try several different versions in order to compare them later in my computer.
 
SimpleGus said:
Yeah that would be ideal. But as I wrote, when u set the jpeg to auto dr the raw will be under exposed by two stops. And thats not ideal for me at least. I have to fix the dr to 100 in the jpeg to get things right but then I sortof loose the meaning by using the jpeg and fujis dr boost...

Sent from my GT-I9300 using FujiXspot mobile app
Click to expand...

Well, if you shoot JPG with the DR set high, the JPG is being made from that "under exposed" RAW (though Rico explained that).

There is no substitute for learning your craft -- and that can involve knowing how to set your metering system up for the circumstances. The camera does NOT KNOW WHAT YOU INTEND TO DO. I emphasize that to make the point that it is up to you to set up the camera correctly for the shot.

Fuji's have some of the lowest noise and highest acuity of any APS-C camera out there. Learn how to take the best advantage of it but that will involve thinking about things in advance, or when that's not possible, making the best of an "underexposed" RAW file.
 
entropic remnants said:
Well, if you shoot JPG with the DR set high, the JPG is being made from that "under exposed" RAW (though Rico explained that).

There is no substitute for learning your craft -- and that can involve knowing how to set your metering system up for the circumstances. The camera does NOT KNOW WHAT YOU INTEND TO DO. I emphasize that to make the point that it is up to you to set up the camera correctly for the shot.

Fuji's have some of the lowest noise and highest acuity of any APS-C camera out there. Learn how to take the best advantage of it but that will involve thinking about things in advance, or when that's not possible, making the best of an "underexposed" RAW file.
Click to expand...

Indeed. For example, it's possible to use DR in concert with a positive exposure correction (like +1 EV and DR200%) in order to raise the shadows of the result and still maintain the same highlight protection as before (aka at DR100% and a "normal" exposure). With this method, you can expand the shadow DR of your result instead of the highlight DR. Of course, you can mix and match, like using + 1 EV EC and DR400% in order to gain 1 EV more shadow DR and 1 EV more highlight DR (instead of only 2 EV of additional highlight DR).
 
For the most part I shoot my X100 in RAW + JPG Fine. To be honest unless I'm shooting something that I know I'm going to use the Raw workflow for (some night shots, for example) then I don't end up using the Raw files that often - but there has been a couple of occasions where I have been able to salvage something more usable from than the JPG.

Other than the difference in write times I don't think there isn't really a drawback in shooting RAW and JPG.

Rico, what's the issue with Aperture and x100 raw files?
 
I paid for 12 bits 'n now I want my 12 bits.
Sometimes 8 bits just don't cut it. Good enough reason for me to shoot RAW&F, despite the x-tra hassle.
 

Similar threads

ean10775
    • Like
Fuji X100 or X-series system camera (JPEG vs RAW)?
Replies
4
Views
2K
ean10775
ean10775
Ray Sachs
RAW vs JPEG - Fuji and Olympus
Replies
6
Views
5K
Luckypenguin
Luckypenguin
Ranger Rick
Sigma B&W with DP2 Merrill- jpeg or from RAW?
Replies
6
Views
2K
Garylh
G
Back
Top