- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
I've owned two Panasonic 20mms and two Olympus 17mm f2.8s... so I definitely know what you mean!
Well, at least for , you have an in-between. Ever tried the Panasonic 15mm f/1.7?I go back forth between 28mm and 35mm. The worse part is I tend to buy and sell and re-buy and re..... I think I've owned the Pan 14mm three times and two X70s. Pair that with 4 (5?) Oly 17mm f/1.8.
I have a thread over on mu-43, I can't find it at the moment, about the PL15. Something like "The best lens I never liked". Tried it twice.Well, at least for , you have an in-between. Ever tried the Panasonic 15mm f/1.7?
M.
David, thanks for that. My "work" gear has actually not so much changed as shifted - with the main thing being the acquistion of the Z6 (while getting rid of all APS-C gear and quite a few lenses), but in principle, the kit is stable. The *only* thing I'm contemplating is actually moving on the D750 - but apart from depreciation, there's no reason to do that quickly: It's a known quantity and works as reliably as ever. I'm just a little surprised how thoroughly the Z6 has taken over as the main workhorse.@MoonMind, one of the best parts about separating my pro kit from my fun stuff was the ability to justify buying and selling to try things out for fun. It was a lot easier once I didn't have to worry about not having reliable gear for work AND with m4/3 stuff I wasn't talking about swapping out a $2,000+ lens or body. And I was usually pretty good at breaking even.
The GR III, while clearly being a "nice to have" camera, presents me with a much bigger conundrum: Whenever I pick it up, I'm hooked. Whenever I put it away, I don't seem to miss it. Yet I find it very hard to imagine it not being available to me. No real reasoning involved ...
M.
I was having a conversation with @Jonathan F/2 about this just the other day. The IR flash assist that Nikon DSLRs and flashes offer is something mirrorless still hasn't been able to replace. It's why if I were still shooting events today I'd still have the DSLRs.David, thanks for that. My "work" gear has actually not so much changed as shifted - with the main thing being the acquistion of the Z6 (while getting rid of all APS-C gear and quite a few lenses), but in principle, the kit is stable. The *only* thing I'm contemplating is actually moving on the D750 - but apart from depreciation, there's no reason to do that quickly: It's a known quantity and works as reliably as ever. I'm just a little surprised how thoroughly the Z6 has taken over as the main workhorse.
The GR III, while clearly being a "nice to have" camera, presents me with a much bigger conundrum: Whenever I pick it up, I'm hooked. Whenever I put it away, I don't seem to miss it. Yet I find it very hard to imagine it not being available to me. No real reasoning involved ...
M.
Should have mentioned that, too! My whole lighting system revolves around Nikon at the moment, but I've migrated to third-party lights (Elinchrom and Godox), so I could probably (for the most part) switch camera brands. But it works, and it's very convenient - and the dedicated on-camera flashguns are great, too.I was having a conversation with @Jonathan F/2 about this just the other day. The IR flash assist that Nikon DSLRs and flashes offer is something mirrorless still hasn't been able to replace. It's why if I were still shooting events today I'd still have the DSLRs.
David, thanks for that. My "work" gear has actually not so much changed as shifted - with the main thing being the acquistion of the Z6 (while getting rid of all APS-C gear and quite a few lenses), but in principle, the kit is stable.
M.
No, not at all, hence the quotation marks. The Nikon gear is what I use whenever I get hired - due to my day job, that has been a rare thing for the last couple of years...“Work” as in main income...?
If so, may I ask what your job is...?
Highlight weighted metering has been a revelation to me, and technically when you use this metering mode you are already using a sort of "spot" meter, just with the camera automatically selecting the brightest bits for the spot area. As an example of how useful I find it, I walked around some and shot yesterday, which was overcast, admittedly, but once I dialed in a good exposure comp, I only needed to change it for one or two shots. Much as I like shooting manual with a GR, A mode with this metering mode and auto ISO gets there so much faster much of the time.@agentlossing Andrew, thanks a lot for that, I really admire you (and others) for your stamina to make the little camera work for you. I struggle a bit, but I may just have a minor revelation that might help (me).
First, let me say that I'm a RAW shooter, so I don't attack the problem by tweaking the JPEG settings, but anyway, I like both the Positive Film and the High Contrast B&W settings as a baseline for the look I'm after, so I have set up two more or less identical modes, one for colour, one for black and white, the rest is done in post. But I agree that there's quite a bit of merit to getting things right in-camera.
The thing I am struggling with the most are the results I get when using multisegment metering - this leads to blown-out highlights far too often, especially if I don't have time to apply exposure compensation. That's actually nothing new - it was the same with the old GR: Bad highlight handling ruined quite few shots. However, someone on this board (can't remember who, unfortunately) pointed me towards spot metering with highlight protection, and in my first tests, this seems to work really well. Shadow recovery with the GR III's RAW files is very good, too, so things can be adjusted in post without too much trouble - but anyway, most images look quite nice SOOC now.
I have quite high hopes for this approach to work out.
M.
Sadly no, nothing put out by Ricoh for approximating the in camera look.Not sure if this has been discussed (I didn't have time to re-read through the thread). But one thing I'm dealing with on the Pen F is that I have to use the Oly Workspace application to get the results I'm seeing from in camera processing. Then export that to a TIFF before importing into Lightroom. I'm hoping that at some point I'll be able to find / create a profile that comes close to the JPeg processing. But until then that's what I have to do in order to get the results I want from my RAWs. I even get the full color wheel control like I was adjusting things in camera.
View attachment 211334
Is there a Ricoh App might help the processing?
The image is processed - but from JPEG ("Positive Film" preset), using Polarr; I like how gentle the small changes I usually make to the images are applied by Polarr. In this case, I let the shadows in the foreground drop away on purpose (to accentuate the single leaf in the out-of-focus foreground). But you're right there - the JPEGs don't lag a lot behind the RAW files in terms of latitude, at the very least a lot less so than with other cameras (like the Canon G1X III and the Olympus E-M5 III - both great cameras that produce pleasing JPEGs, but the GR's are more versatile).While I'm sure the above photo was developed from RAW on desktop software since you mentioned that's how you're using the files, I feel that both images processed that way and camera JPEG files both show very rich shadows.