ReneBee
Top Veteran
- Location
- Nieuwegein, The Netherlands
- Name
- René
Now you mention it, I see it as well.
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Cameraderie, a friendly photography forum, join now for free!
Bugs Show 'Insect'
- Thread starter soundimageplus
- Start date
- Location
- North Carolina
- Name
- Rashid
Many thanks, Irene. Yes you are right. I missed them although I try to look for them every time I use DxO. Very often, when I export from DxO I get these parallel lines, usually in the top left corner. I asked about them in the DxO forum, but no one else has seen them, so it may be caused by my computer. So now I try to check the output file, and if they are there, I re-export the file, sometimes more than once, until I get a "clean" one. This time I missed seeing them. I'll redo and replace the image. Thank you again!
CatsAreGods
Banished?
- Location
- Purgatory
Daddy long-legs spider with lunch
- Location
- Royal Town of Sutton Coldfield, UK.
- Name
- Richard
Which version of DXO are you using?
lucien
Legend
We all know deep down "it not the gear" that takes/makes the shot. It's the shooter using their tool properly with the best lens/camera combo that they have.Thank you. Starting to get back into shooting regularly as we approach summer.
I keep coming back here (and over to the other place) for inspiration. I follow photographers like Mark Berkery and Hayath Mohammed.
They both shoot micro four thirds and the quality of their work is the perfect reason not to throw money at 'better' gear in the hope of improving my images. Think the monopod's coming out of hibernation tomorrow
- Location
- North Carolina
- Name
- Rashid
As far as I know, I am using the current version: v5.2.1 Build 4737. I can't remember if the problem existed also with previous versions. Thank you.
CatsAreGods
Banished?
- Location
- Purgatory
BTS of how I got those spider shots
- Location
- Royal Town of Sutton Coldfield, UK.
- Name
- Richard
- Location
- Royal Town of Sutton Coldfield, UK.
- Name
- Richard
It's a great lens. It's my only macro lens at the moment (other than a bellows/microscope lens).
If I can hold the subject still (grab the leaf/plant with my left fingers and rest the lens on my left wrist), I use autofocus most of the time.
If the subject is really tiny, or blowing around in the wind, I set the minimum focus manually and move the camera back and forth while shooting lots and lots of frames.
The benefit of the longer focal lengths is that the subject is further away at the minimum focussing distance. This makes lighting easier. The disadvantage is that the depth of field is shallower.
I much prefer 60mm to 30mm/45mm. The extra distance means I can use an achromat like the Marumi or Raynox for extra magnification and still have a couple of centimetres of space to get some light in there.
I would like a longer focal length, preferably with sync IS. Olympus have been teasing a 100mm for years.
- Location
- Royal Town of Sutton Coldfield, UK.
- Name
- Richard
Are these with the Raynox as well as the O60 macro? I've been using 26mm of ext tubes along with the O60 to get closer which does help, but it costs a couple of stops of light. I've got a DC-250 but I've not used it with the O60 for a while... there's a reason why I've settled on the ext tubes, but I can't remember why... I'm wondering if it's worth giving it another go for the extra magnification???Rather wet here today.
Found a robberfly and a mystery beetle with impressive raindrop
View attachment 315276
View attachment 315277
View attachment 315278
- Location
- North Carolina
- Name
- Rashid
May I ask, Richart, whether you use S-AF or C-AF when using autofocus? I've been using C-AF with macro but I'm not sure that this is what I should use. Many thanks.
- Location
- Royal Town of Sutton Coldfield, UK.
- Name
- Richard
I often use a Marumi achromat. The Raynox is permanently attached to my bellows for use with a microscope lens. It's supposed to be one of the best relay lenses you can buy.
These pictures were taken without any attachments. I was playing with a new light modifier today, I don't think I've ever tried to shoot macro in the rain, but I'm thinking perhaps I should - I wasn't expecting to find anything.
I've also got Kenko tubes but haven't used them for a while. For hand holding, I think the Marumi/Raynox is easier to handle. When I get round to it, I want to try the 100-400mm with the tubes - can't think of a reason why it shouldn't work.
- Location
- Royal Town of Sutton Coldfield, UK.
- Name
- Richard
S-AF (or manual).
I've never been able to use C-AF. Never really needed it because I try to find ways to hold my subject still.
If you are holding the leaf/twig etc and the insect is moving, just get a half-pressure lock on to focus with S-AF then move the leaf/twig back if the insect is crawling towards you. S-AF is the best of both worlds, IMO.
I'll have to give it a go with the Raynox again, might even give tubes + raynox a go just for a laugh! Definitely going to try macro in the rain, the droplets add a certain something to a macro shot.
- Location
- Beaumaris, Melbourne, Australia
- Name
- John ...
Richard, I have the FTs 25mm (?) extension tube, which I've used with my FTs 50-200 MkI. It certainly greatly increases working distance compared with my FTs f/2 50 macro.
I tried the 4/3 50-200 with 26mm ext tubes yesterday… it’s a bitch to hold a speedlight out at arms length just to get enough light onto your subject whilst wielding that beast!
