I think the RX100 files are very easy to work with SEP. I usually pick one of the favorites, choose a film type on top of it and sometimes add one of the fllters, and depending on the result may do a little tweaking of contrast, structure and shadows.Brilliant processing. I'm not a B&W processing pro. Do you think the EX100 is responding very well to SEP, or does it take extra work to get the look you want?
I think you're right and I am completely wrong... from what I've gleaned via Google, the Aptina sensor's design is significantly different from the Sony's. Thanks for correcting me!actually the J1/V1 uses a sensor by Aptina, which is a sensor manufacturer (and designer) that supplies its products to OEM's. As far as I'm aware, there's some uncertainty whether Sony designed the J1's sensor and licensed it to Aptina, or if it's Aptina's own design, but what's certain is that if you open the Nikon's up it says Aptina on the sensor.
Odd, DxO tested it at 12.4 EV at ISO80 which is massive, wouldn't even be out of place in a DSLR. Maybe the meter overexposes so you need to dial in negative compensation as default?I use the back ring for comp exp. Push down, then turn ring. I used the front/lens ring for FL, mostly so I can set it to an FL I want (28/35/50, etc.). I tried using the front ring for other uses, but it's too imprecise and slow, IMO.
Agree on the DR. It still acts like a pocket camera in that respect. I'd say about 9 EV?
I'll try that, because at 0 EV its blowing highlights regularly. But Im shooting jpg. Not sure if RAW woud be different.Odd, DxO tested it at 12.4 EV at ISO80 which is massive, wouldn't even be out of place in a DSLR. Maybe the meter overexposes so you need to dial in negative compensation as default?