- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
Cool! The ship's wheel and the color of the wall add to the interest of the shot. And welcome to the forum, by the way!
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Ricoh Surprise! Ricoh GRIIIx (Showcase)
- Thread starter agentlossing
- Start date
-
- Tags
- ricoh
- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
I added "showcase" to the end of this thread so it's clearer that, as time has passed, it has morphed from a discussion thread to a showcase thread.
- Location
- Toronto, Canada
- Name
- Craig
- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
I haven't updated my firmware to V1.21, last time I updated was V1.20 which added the negative film profile. I don't know if the recent firmware versions did this, but I have noticed my shake reduction causing weird things to happen, like blurred shots at shutter speeds around 1/250-1/400. Just noticed that V1.21 includes "improved stability of shake reduction," so I might wanna update. PSA to anyone else who might have noticed similar behavior.
No but thanks for the warning.
- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
I've been enjoying the look of the negative film profile lately, especially when the sun breaks through on one of the first relatively chilly fall days so far in Seattle.
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- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
A slight crop and different processing in-camera for today's Single In shot. It was standing room only on my bus this morning, and I wanted to get a good shot of this person - the shirt, jacket, haircut and newspaper seemed very "of a time" and a bit unusual among Seattle's tech-obsessed millennial workforce.
Unfortunately, at the first stop downtown, about 15 more riders piled on, and I was forced backwards and further away from this seated gentleman. So, the grab shot ended up being the only shot I would get.
Unfortunately, at the first stop downtown, about 15 more riders piled on, and I was forced backwards and further away from this seated gentleman. So, the grab shot ended up being the only shot I would get.
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- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
I have finally noticed a large dust speck in the upper left of my GRIIIx that is definitely sensor dust - it had to happen eventually, but I've had this one since 2021 so I won't complain too much. Reviewing instructions on how to crack open a GRIII/x it actually looks very easy, so I may attempt a self-clean soon. The main concern will be not introducing more dust inside the camera in the process.
Please let us know how it goes? I haven't posted many pictures with mine, but I use it a good bit and I have one very small speck of sensor dust. Mine only shows at f/5.6 (barely) and smaller (moreso) apertures, and I mainly seem to shoot the camera at wider apertures. So I haven't worried about it too much. But I expect it to only get worse - especially since I'll be traveling in some dusty places this summer and plan to bring it along. But I'll be interested to see what you decide to do.
- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
I've had three GRIII models now, and they mostly developed some sensor dust. This one is well outside of the warranty period, of course, but the previous ones were within manufacturer or extended warranties so I could have Precision Camera service them without cost. I think this big dust spot is recent; I can see it as a diffused blob even in live view, and it becomes quite a sharp black speck when stopping down. Unless I can dislodge this somehow, it'll need to be cleaned.
- Location
- The Netherlands
- Name
- Marlof
I’ve had my GRIIIx cleaned under warranty as well. One spot, visible from f/6.3. I got a bit tired of cloning it out of blue landscape skies, which was the only place it really showed. Never carried it in my pocket without it’s case, but still. I do love to use the camera. I don’t like dust on sensors though, and am still amazed that I never had to have my MFT sensors cleaned, even when I regularly change lenses out in the open. That can’t be just luck.
- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
I've had to blow dust spots off MFT sensors, but that's easy to do. The GR has the misfortune of sucking dust through the retracting lens mechanism. There is a bit of foam providing a loose seal, but eventually stuff makes its way through.
- Location
- Seattle
- Name
- Andrew
Whew, okay... The GRIIIx cleaning process didn't exactly go as planned, but was still a success overall. I followed this guide which was succinct and had all of the necessary info to get to the sensor in a safe way.
You can barely see, but there is a bit of dust sealing around the gap in the top plate for the shutter button.
LCD panel is extremely slim and sealed to the back of the camera.
This is the final hurdle, and proved to be a bit of a problem for me. There are three silver screws which need to be removed in order to separate the sensor assembly from the lens assembly and the front of the camera. One's on the top left, one is in the bottom center, and the third is hidden behind the dark gray ribbon at top right.
The issue with these screws is that they are very positively seated and have springs underneath which exert a lot of tension in order to keep the sensor assembly anchored firmly. This means they're hell to loosen. I stripped a couple of 00 Phillips head screwdrivers and desperately tried to avoid stripping the screws themselves. Eventually got the bottom and left ones free, but the right-hand screw started to strip, and got to the point where I knew it would only get worse. It just wasn't going to happen, even after I went out and got a better screwdriver set.
However, the other two screws came out, and the springs underneath pushed the sensor unit up high enough that there was a decent gap. Not enough for me to actually see the sensor, but enough for me to get a canned air straw in and blast the sensor and rear lens element (very carefully/gently). That was all I could do, so I then put it back together.
I think it mostly did the trick, however. At f16 I can still see some tiny specks, but they wouldn't show up in photos at all and aren't visible at more open aperture values. This is the before, with the biggest new monster speck and others:
And here is the after shot:
I used two different monitors to provide the white backlight, thus the color difference - actually, the first one was in the camera's B&W mode. the second shot is at f10, the f16 version was barely any different.
All in all, I guess it went as well as could be expected. But I do hate projects where literally the last screw strips or won't budge...
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You can barely see, but there is a bit of dust sealing around the gap in the top plate for the shutter button.
Join to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
LCD panel is extremely slim and sealed to the back of the camera.
Join to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
This is the final hurdle, and proved to be a bit of a problem for me. There are three silver screws which need to be removed in order to separate the sensor assembly from the lens assembly and the front of the camera. One's on the top left, one is in the bottom center, and the third is hidden behind the dark gray ribbon at top right.
The issue with these screws is that they are very positively seated and have springs underneath which exert a lot of tension in order to keep the sensor assembly anchored firmly. This means they're hell to loosen. I stripped a couple of 00 Phillips head screwdrivers and desperately tried to avoid stripping the screws themselves. Eventually got the bottom and left ones free, but the right-hand screw started to strip, and got to the point where I knew it would only get worse. It just wasn't going to happen, even after I went out and got a better screwdriver set.
However, the other two screws came out, and the springs underneath pushed the sensor unit up high enough that there was a decent gap. Not enough for me to actually see the sensor, but enough for me to get a canned air straw in and blast the sensor and rear lens element (very carefully/gently). That was all I could do, so I then put it back together.
I think it mostly did the trick, however. At f16 I can still see some tiny specks, but they wouldn't show up in photos at all and aren't visible at more open aperture values. This is the before, with the biggest new monster speck and others:
Join to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
And here is the after shot:
Join to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
I used two different monitors to provide the white backlight, thus the color difference - actually, the first one was in the camera's B&W mode. the second shot is at f10, the f16 version was barely any different.
All in all, I guess it went as well as could be expected. But I do hate projects where literally the last screw strips or won't budge...
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