To JPEG or not to JPEG, The Good, The Bad and the Ugly

L0n3Gr3yW0lf

Hall of Famer
Location
Somerset, UK
Name
Ovi
I want to say this is just a personal opinion and is about my current situation, I find it a lot more helpful to put my thoughts in writing and gather as many views and ideas as I can from others because I get stuck in my head to often to find good (or any) answers as I can. (More specific details of where or how I am in life right now will be at the bottom of the post so you can skip it if you are not interested in reading).

As per the title, I am trying to research if I can move from RAW to JPEG to make my workflow more manageable, my data hoarding lighter, and improve my overall enjoyment and motivation for photography. I will start with the psychological issue first. I have realised that I dread the post-processing step because I have grown a backlog that has come to 3 years old with some of the pictures. I still enjoy the making pictures process and I do get that dopamine kick every time I get the "right" picture (it's subjective to everyone's different skill levels, interests and tastes). What I have come to be frustrated with is that I come home, import the pictures, edit a few and life kicks in and takes me away from the laptop if I have too many pictures and the pictures get stuck in no edited state either because I make others or I don't have the time or my mood/interest has fallen off a cliff (which happens all too often recently). And because I am not editing the pictures I don't have the final edits to share and I share less and that's another disappointment with myself on top.
Of course, things are more difficult/frustrating as a wildlife photographer if you shoot burst to catch the right moment of the action ... or trying to do pet photography (with my little dog only for now) and the lens or camera AF/motor can't keep up with a running subject and only trying to burst for the lucky shot of whatever the buffer can muster. Dealing with hundreds of shots that are actually only a handful of pictures really truly worth it (AKA sharp enough and in focus and at the right moment) is annoying as usual. But some types of images only really can be made using burst, more so if you have older generation cameras that do not have the performances and features to help to get the right shot.
(Addendum, what I have noticed is that some people don't really put value in what every new generation brings its features and/or performances that make it a bit easier or increase the chances of getting the shot more than then the previous generation. Of course, skill is always on top of the list that will help you get the shot more BUT it's always a different situation for each person, how much time you have to improve your skill, how much money you have to be able to afford the gear, what kind of results you expect to get, how much you depend on your gear as tools for generating income. Myself, I love photography like nothing else but I can't afford the best of the range nor do I generate any income from my images.)_

Back on topic, sorry about that, the 2nd issue with shooting RAW is the performance impact of trying to edit them. Smaller RAW files like 20 or 24 Megapickle Ricks images are a lot easier to edit than the upper range like 42, 45, 50, and 61s. The reason for that is as simple there's more data to uncompress (if it's a compressed file), to demosaic (all files no matter the brand or size have to do that) and to simply read the data. The first impact is on the Processor (CPU) and the generation (age) of the CPU dictates how well it can do that (so the newest it is the better and the only other factor that matters is raw power, the all-mighty GHz, the more the better, but all of this is a very simplified way of putting it). The 2nd impact is memory (RAM), the larger the file the more space it requires on memory to be able to display in real-time the information and changes (the larger the RAW file the more memory you need to keep the editing snappy and responsive).
My laptop was high-end when I bought it 4 years ago (everything ages and in the computing department, they age quicker than anything else IF your demands/needs increase as well). My ASUS ZenBook Pro Duo 15" came with the Intel i7 9750H CPU which has 6 cores and 12 threads with a base of 2.6 GHz and boost (on single core performance) to 4 GHz and 16GB DDR4 (probably the slow 2.333 MHz stock, BIOS does not support XMP profiles).
For the last 2 years, it has become increasingly frustrating to edit my pictures, where I am pegging the RAM usage to 15.3 GBs in about 15 minutes with everything shut down from Task Manager, there is literally nothing else I can do to get things better but to switch from RAW to JPEG. RAM usage is an issue because when I switch from one file to another my screen blacks out and Lightroom becomes unresponsive for up to minutes (because it's trying to swap the memory files to the slow Page File System), for the last 6 months I can't even watch videos or listen to music on my laptop while editing pictures, which I always loved to do). Yes, I have reset Windows to fresh install and it still doesn't help even with anything else installed on the laptop and that turns my laptop basically unusable for anything else, which I do, I game on it in my free time, I watch movies and it's my main device for everything else.
The CPU age is also becoming an issue because more and more software and even Windows itself is becoming more threaded competent, where on Windows 10 I used to have 1-2 cores used more often than not it could easily boost to 4 GHz and stay fast, not with Windows 11 it uses 4 or more cores and my boost is dropping to 3 GHZ or even lower than the base 2.6 GHz, which means it's thermal throttling and even power throttling at 6 core usage. When I import files or export JPEGS I see the CPU drop to 1.6 GHz at 6 core usage and if I had anything playing in the background (like Winamp with music or VLC with a movie) it would stutter both audio and video. I have cleaned the laptop fans and heatsinks repasted the CPU and GPU, and change the thermal pads to thermal conductive paste (K-5 Pro) on the VRMs and the Voltage Controllers on the motherboard, the temperatures are averaging at 80 C on the CPU (peak at 95 C when it hits power throttling only) and 75 C on the GPU so it's not an overheating issue. It's quite a frustrating problem that I can't solve unless I can come out with money for a brand new (current-gen or last-gen) PC or Apple's M1 devices. Or stop editing JPEGs.

The last realisation I had was am I really doing justice to the 42 MP RAW files I edit? Of course, I love the output, I enjoy getting as much as possible out of the colours and exposure of an image, and I often push the Shadows and Highlights sliders to the max (unless it's above ISO 6.400). Here's a typical example:
1666704715857.png

(Of course everyone has different tastes) I think I try to balance the exposure and the outlook in Post-Processing more then out in the field because I know I can get so much more from editing RAW and it leaves me to focus more on composition and the moment then worry about exposure settings. Even the editing slighters you see there are almost defaults to most of the pictures I make. The Sharpness sliders are the default for all my images bellow ISO 3.200, the Presence slighter is mostly the default I use to get the most details out of an image, the Exposure is about default but I adapt those most often depending on the situation. I would like to add that I do have OCD when it comes to numbers and I always put them is divisable values, either by 3 or 4 or 10, I have tried not to many times but it was "itching" my mind so much that I have up trying to change.)
Now where I am going with this is all my images live and are displayed for the internet or my laptop (which is ony 15") and the only prints I do is for my own home or for the Camera Club Competition. I do enjoy large prints and I prefer/consider the minimum print as A3 to be worth doing and looking at. So I am not using the RAW files or the image quality to anything more then average and with all the issues added it's starting to become a really big negative impact on my photography overall (at my current situation, maybe in 10 or 20 years it will be diferent but that's entirely another subject.)
What really "broke" my mindset with prints is when I saw an A3 print when I got my prints of my Little Legs as a birthday gift yesterday and one of the picture was from my Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G main shooting camera with literally no edits done to it:
photo_2022-10-25_14-43-37.jpg

If I hold that picture to my face I can tell that the sharpness and the definition of her fur are not what I expect from my Sony a7R II with either the Tamron 28-75mm f 2.8 G2 or Samyang AF 35mm f 1.8 ... BUT when I have at the distance viewing of more then a meter (as the picture was made with my phone above) I can't really say anything bad about it, and that picture was made in low-ish light with my phone because she gets very excited when I grab my camera (she thinks she's going out so she get's "activated") and it's near impossible to get candids of her indoors.
Now I am not in a rush to sell all of my stuff just to get a brand-new phone for making images, I will always prefer the manual controls, the lowest shutter lag and the infinite range of focal range of any dedicated camera. But I do think that I am trying to aim for the moon while I am trying to wrestle with all the hurdles of using a "military-grade, state-of-the-art, artillery calibre" device. This might be my worst analogy yet.

So comes the "idea" of instead of shooting RAW maybe I can actually make do with JPEG for most of my images (RAW can always be an option if I am unsure I can get the image right enough). Of course, I will have to be more careful with exposure (especially in extreme contrast or low light situations) and worst of all White Balance since that's very notorious for being uncorrectable if it's way too wrong. And shooting JPEG means I have quicker imports, and it takes a lot less space (I already have close to 4 TB of pictures and I know that's not a lot for some people but hard drive costs still add up, especially if you duplicate your images on multiple drives for backups. F.I.Y. CLOUD STORAGE IS NOT A BACKUP, corporations and companies can take away your data at their own discretion no matter what "the laws or EULA agreements" you might sign.

The benefits would be that my laptop has more years to "live" and breathe on the smaller JPEG files, I have more space for more pictures, and I can even use mobile devices to edit or share pictures (like tablets or smartphones) as an on-the-go alternative to my laptop, I can instantly share pictures without having to think about having to edit them first. RAW + JPEG is always a backup choice, just in case.

Now I do have a difficult problem with Sony specifically when it comes to JPEGs. First is the White Balance, I have never seen such a bad White Balance reaction to artificial light in my life (coming from Pentax, Panasonic and Olympus). The main street lamps in the town I live have a yellow tint to them but the Auto White Balance on my Sony a7R II is so bad at it, it turns the image in almost pure orange and even the Lightroom maximum Blue Tint correction can't even make up for it:
1666706851442.png

I "eye-dropped" the White Balance on the white PVC pipe on the middle bottom of the screen right next to the edge of the building as I know that's the most balanced are in the image BUT the image has a significant green cast to it now and lifting the Magenta Tint will not help, it will make things worse.
1666707170342.png

I got some of the colours right here, mostly, as I balanced the White Point to the silver street lamp neck, but you can see on the left image how orange the image was.

The other worry I have with Sony is their reputation with colour reproduction (at least in the first 3 generations of their A7 cameras) and JPEG files. Editing in RAW I rarely do anything to the colours. I try to get a warmer White Balance as that's how I prefer to "see" my images, the Contrast and Dehaze sliders are the only ones that really pushes the colours for me (within reason).
I have tried to shoot JPEGs only last week for one of my doogie walks and after looking at the images I got only one that I was actually impressed with of all of them:
OVI00819.JPG
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I have done little to no editing to the images because I wanted to see the rendering of the JPEG engine with the Vivid Creative Style at +2 Contrast, +1 Saturation and +1 Sharpness. (To be honest, I can't remember when or why I chose this setting and that profile, I just put the camera in JPEG only before thinking of anything else).

OVI00831.JPG
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Both of the above images as most of the rest have +1 Ev Exposure in Lightroom because I tend to shoot -0.7 EV on the Exposure Compensation on my Sony a7R II to keep the Highlights from blowing. This is the ONLY image where I feel that is actually sharp and nicely crisp, I don't know if it's the Tamron combo with the Sony camera or just the Sony being old-er that the AF is not as accurate/fast as I hoped (in RAW files I think I can compensate for a tiny bit out of focus better then in JPEGs).

OVI00834.JPG
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OVI00839.JPG
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I do quite like the colours on both of these images, not to saturate, though I do prefer the bit warmer White Balance (both were in Auto) on the first. The other issue I noticed with shooting JPEG is that colour fringing is not the best way to deal with, I just tried the Lens Profile Correction, the Manual "Eye-Dropper" AND a brush adjustment with +100 Defringing:
1666708507638.png

It still leaves some of the orange hallo-ing and a bit of blue in the background. (Not sure if this is nit picking or not.)

OVI00840.JPG
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With 0 EV Exposure Compensation, the Highlights do tend to get lost quickly, the image has -100 Highlights and +50 Shadows and there's, unfortunately, banding in the middle of the sky with the clouds:
1666708773055.png

This is why I prefer to underexpose -0.3 EV in very low light, -0.7 EV in daylight (my default) and -1 EV in strong contrast and sunshine.

OVI00846.JPG
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Things are not getting better in Low Light, unsurprisingly, but such is life with wildlife, I pushed the JPEG +1 EV and -50 Highlights (0 EV Exposure Compensation). I can't say I am surprised by the "sharpness" of ISO 16.000.

OVI00846-Edit.JPG
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Passing it through Topaz DeNoise AI doesn't seem to help much more than smear the out-of-focus noise a bit, the "sharpness" of the duck is still lacking.

OVI00859.JPG
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High Contrast Low Light situation does not help the JPEG question very much, the noise is noticeable and exposure was difficult to manage, +1 EV, -100 Highlights, and +50 Shadows in Lightroom for ISO 4.000 were a bit much.

OVI00864.JPG
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The Auto White Balance did okayu for the colours but I am not particularly impressed with the loss of detail in the trees below the monument (it was a pretty cool day so there wasn't any heat haze), the JPEG was pushed +1 EV with -100 Highlights and +50 Shadows.

OVI00889.JPG
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This was a difficult situation because the sunset was overwhelming the metering of the camera which has -0.3 EV Exposure Compensation, yet I had to push +3 EV in Lightroom which is a lot for a JPEG file and -50 Highlights, the bottom of the image shadows have been posterized and I don't think they would handle printing very well.

OVI00917.JPG
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I can't make a conclusion on the JPEG question just yet. I do worry that it might end up in another situation like Micro Four Thirds/APS-C VS. 35mm FF/ Medium Format where yes, it can be better and it can show a big improvement BUT you have to accept other downsides as well like cost, weight, size. One would think, but it's not necessarily common sense, that having a bigger/better sensor would give more advantage to JPEG rendition compared to editing RAW of smaller sensors but that can be a fallacy in itself because companies differ in their abilities as well as preferences of how good the JPEG engine they have.
I have never used a Fujifilm, Canon or Nikon system so I can't comment on whether their JPEG file is better or worse (or just different) compared to Sony's. (Though this is the first time I am seriously trying to think about shooting JPEG only/mostly so my previous Pentax, Panasonic and Olympus experiences are not helping to diversify my opinion either.)


(Unnecessary information from this point, just context on what's been swirling inside my head and life). Following Cognitive Behaviour Therapy for the last month and a half in trying to deal with my anxiety problems and the loss of a baby and my partner last year, I have been in a mental state where it's difficult to understand myself or, sometimes, who I am. Photography has been a part (bigger or most of) my life since starting my journey back in 2008. My learning has been very slow for the first 8 years because I could never afford anything beyond the kit lens (and a few adapted lenses) so practice and mistakes have been the greatest teacher I had. After moving to the UK my world has expanded to better cameras, and more lenses, which allowed me to try things I could not do before, like wildlife photography, macro, and action. My photography needs have changed quite abruptly last year as I was getting ready to be a dad and my focus was shifting from my own interests to documenting family and being travel friendly. But that did not happen and I ended up having to deal with a lot of debt (that I am still paying) from a variety of situations that I could not avoid or had to accept to be able to continue living in the UK.
But my photography has been slowly going into the backseat of this ride that my life is right now, from being able to have the free time to actually do it, to the difficulty of finding motivation and (quite literally) the will (to put the camera in my hand or look for a picture to make). I do have days where the excitement and desire for photography (either ideas or projects or just going out) is very strong but it doesn't usually last before the end of the week. Struggling with almost an identity crisis I am afraid (some days) that I might as well abandon photography altogether (I had days where I wanted to sell everything to just be a "normal" and "boring" person and not suffer GAS or "The Photography Itch"). Depression has made it worse with finding motivation, staying at my desk and watching movies with my Little Legs on my chest or just playing World Of Tanks with Little Legs on my lap and trying to be distracted enough from bad thoughts or feelings.
I have tried and I keep trying to find ways to make Photography a bit easier (like the JPEGs) or more engaging (like season ideas), maybe more rewarding (like prints) or trying something new (like portraiture) ... to try and get out of this circle that I found myself in (most of the pictures I have made is of my little Nuggie or the same streets I walk, day in and day out, commuting to work). I might have got my will to live back but I am still trying to find the will to be me right now.
 
I want to say this is just a personal opinion and is about my current situation, I find it a lot more helpful to put my thoughts in writing and gather as many views and ideas as I can from others because I get stuck in my head to often to find good (or any) answers as I can. (More specific details of where or how I am in life right now will be at the bottom of the post so you can skip it if you are not interested in reading).

As per the title, I am trying to research if I can move from RAW to JPEG to make my workflow more manageable, my data hoarding lighter, and improve my overall enjoyment and motivation for photography. I will start with the psychological issue first. I have realised that I dread the post-processing step because I have grown a backlog that has come to 3 years old with some of the pictures. I still enjoy the making pictures process and I do get that dopamine kick every time I get the "right" picture (it's subjective to everyone's different skill levels, interests and tastes). What I have come to be frustrated with is that I come home, import the pictures, edit a few and life kicks in and takes me away from the laptop if I have too many pictures and the pictures get stuck in no edited state either because I make others or I don't have the time or my mood/interest has fallen off a cliff (which happens all too often recently). And because I am not editing the pictures I don't have the final edits to share and I share less and that's another disappointment with myself on top.
Of course, things are more difficult/frustrating as a wildlife photographer if you shoot burst to catch the right moment of the action ... or trying to do pet photography (with my little dog only for now) and the lens or camera AF/motor can't keep up with a running subject and only trying to burst for the lucky shot of whatever the buffer can muster. Dealing with hundreds of shots that are actually only a handful of pictures really truly worth it (AKA sharp enough and in focus and at the right moment) is annoying as usual. But some types of images only really can be made using burst, more so if you have older generation cameras that do not have the performances and features to help to get the right shot.
(Addendum, what I have noticed is that some people don't really put value in what every new generation brings its features and/or performances that make it a bit easier or increase the chances of getting the shot more than then the previous generation. Of course, skill is always on top of the list that will help you get the shot more BUT it's always a different situation for each person, how much time you have to improve your skill, how much money you have to be able to afford the gear, what kind of results you expect to get, how much you depend on your gear as tools for generating income. Myself, I love photography like nothing else but I can't afford the best of the range nor do I generate any income from my images.)_

Back on topic, sorry about that, the 2nd issue with shooting RAW is the performance impact of trying to edit them. Smaller RAW files like 20 or 24 Megapickle Ricks images are a lot easier to edit than the upper range like 42, 45, 50, and 61s. The reason for that is as simple there's more data to uncompress (if it's a compressed file), to demosaic (all files no matter the brand or size have to do that) and to simply read the data. The first impact is on the Processor (CPU) and the generation (age) of the CPU dictates how well it can do that (so the newest it is the better and the only other factor that matters is raw power, the all-mighty GHz, the more the better, but all of this is a very simplified way of putting it). The 2nd impact is memory (RAM), the larger the file the more space it requires on memory to be able to display in real-time the information and changes (the larger the RAW file the more memory you need to keep the editing snappy and responsive).
My laptop was high-end when I bought it 4 years ago (everything ages and in the computing department, they age quicker than anything else IF your demands/needs increase as well). My ASUS ZenBook Pro Duo 15" came with the Intel i7 9750H CPU which has 6 cores and 12 threads with a base of 2.6 GHz and boost (on single core performance) to 4 GHz and 16GB DDR4 (probably the slow 2.333 MHz stock, BIOS does not support XMP profiles).
For the last 2 years, it has become increasingly frustrating to edit my pictures, where I am pegging the RAM usage to 15.3 GBs in about 15 minutes with everything shut down from Task Manager, there is literally nothing else I can do to get things better but to switch from RAW to JPEG. RAM usage is an issue because when I switch from one file to another my screen blacks out and Lightroom becomes unresponsive for up to minutes (because it's trying to swap the memory files to the slow Page File System), for the last 6 months I can't even watch videos or listen to music on my laptop while editing pictures, which I always loved to do). Yes, I have reset Windows to fresh install and it still doesn't help even with anything else installed on the laptop and that turns my laptop basically unusable for anything else, which I do, I game on it in my free time, I watch movies and it's my main device for everything else.
The CPU age is also becoming an issue because more and more software and even Windows itself is becoming more threaded competent, where on Windows 10 I used to have 1-2 cores used more often than not it could easily boost to 4 GHz and stay fast, not with Windows 11 it uses 4 or more cores and my boost is dropping to 3 GHZ or even lower than the base 2.6 GHz, which means it's thermal throttling and even power throttling at 6 core usage. When I import files or export JPEGS I see the CPU drop to 1.6 GHz at 6 core usage and if I had anything playing in the background (like Winamp with music or VLC with a movie) it would stutter both audio and video. I have cleaned the laptop fans and heatsinks repasted the CPU and GPU, and change the thermal pads to thermal conductive paste (K-5 Pro) on the VRMs and the Voltage Controllers on the motherboard, the temperatures are averaging at 80 C on the CPU (peak at 95 C when it hits power throttling only) and 75 C on the GPU so it's not an overheating issue. It's quite a frustrating problem that I can't solve unless I can come out with money for a brand new (current-gen or last-gen) PC or Apple's M1 devices. Or stop editing JPEGs.

The last realisation I had was am I really doing justice to the 42 MP RAW files I edit? Of course, I love the output, I enjoy getting as much as possible out of the colours and exposure of an image, and I often push the Shadows and Highlights sliders to the max (unless it's above ISO 6.400). Here's a typical example:
View attachment 343946
(Of course everyone has different tastes) I think I try to balance the exposure and the outlook in Post-Processing more then out in the field because I know I can get so much more from editing RAW and it leaves me to focus more on composition and the moment then worry about exposure settings. Even the editing slighters you see there are almost defaults to most of the pictures I make. The Sharpness sliders are the default for all my images bellow ISO 3.200, the Presence slighter is mostly the default I use to get the most details out of an image, the Exposure is about default but I adapt those most often depending on the situation. I would like to add that I do have OCD when it comes to numbers and I always put them is divisable values, either by 3 or 4 or 10, I have tried not to many times but it was "itching" my mind so much that I have up trying to change.)
Now where I am going with this is all my images live and are displayed for the internet or my laptop (which is ony 15") and the only prints I do is for my own home or for the Camera Club Competition. I do enjoy large prints and I prefer/consider the minimum print as A3 to be worth doing and looking at. So I am not using the RAW files or the image quality to anything more then average and with all the issues added it's starting to become a really big negative impact on my photography overall (at my current situation, maybe in 10 or 20 years it will be diferent but that's entirely another subject.)
What really "broke" my mindset with prints is when I saw an A3 print when I got my prints of my Little Legs as a birthday gift yesterday and one of the picture was from my Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G main shooting camera with literally no edits done to it:
View attachment 343948
If I hold that picture to my face I can tell that the sharpness and the definition of her fur are not what I expect from my Sony a7R II with either the Tamron 28-75mm f 2.8 G2 or Samyang AF 35mm f 1.8 ... BUT when I have at the distance viewing of more then a meter (as the picture was made with my phone above) I can't really say anything bad about it, and that picture was made in low-ish light with my phone because she gets very excited when I grab my camera (she thinks she's going out so she get's "activated") and it's near impossible to get candids of her indoors.
Now I am not in a rush to sell all of my stuff just to get a brand-new phone for making images, I will always prefer the manual controls, the lowest shutter lag and the infinite range of focal range of any dedicated camera. But I do think that I am trying to aim for the moon while I am trying to wrestle with all the hurdles of using a "military-grade, state-of-the-art, artillery calibre" device. This might be my worst analogy yet.

So comes the "idea" of instead of shooting RAW maybe I can actually make do with JPEG for most of my images (RAW can always be an option if I am unsure I can get the image right enough). Of course, I will have to be more careful with exposure (especially in extreme contrast or low light situations) and worst of all White Balance since that's very notorious for being uncorrectable if it's way too wrong. And shooting JPEG means I have quicker imports, and it takes a lot less space (I already have close to 4 TB of pictures and I know that's not a lot for some people but hard drive costs still add up, especially if you duplicate your images on multiple drives for backups. F.I.Y. CLOUD STORAGE IS NOT A BACKUP, corporations and companies can take away your data at their own discretion no matter what "the laws or EULA agreements" you might sign.

The benefits would be that my laptop has more years to "live" and breathe on the smaller JPEG files, I have more space for more pictures, and I can even use mobile devices to edit or share pictures (like tablets or smartphones) as an on-the-go alternative to my laptop, I can instantly share pictures without having to think about having to edit them first. RAW + JPEG is always a backup choice, just in case.

Now I do have a difficult problem with Sony specifically when it comes to JPEGs. First is the White Balance, I have never seen such a bad White Balance reaction to artificial light in my life (coming from Pentax, Panasonic and Olympus). The main street lamps in the town I live have a yellow tint to them but the Auto White Balance on my Sony a7R II is so bad at it, it turns the image in almost pure orange and even the Lightroom maximum Blue Tint correction can't even make up for it:
View attachment 343954
I "eye-dropped" the White Balance on the white PVC pipe on the middle bottom of the screen right next to the edge of the building as I know that's the most balanced are in the image BUT the image has a significant green cast to it now and lifting the Magenta Tint will not help, it will make things worse.
View attachment 343965
I got some of the colours right here, mostly, as I balanced the White Point to the silver street lamp neck, but you can see on the left image how orange the image was.

The other worry I have with Sony is their reputation with colour reproduction (at least in the first 3 generations of their A7 cameras) and JPEG files. Editing in RAW I rarely do anything to the colours. I try to get a warmer White Balance as that's how I prefer to "see" my images, the Contrast and Dehaze sliders are the only ones that really pushes the colours for me (within reason).
I have tried to shoot JPEGs only last week for one of my doogie walks and after looking at the images I got only one that I was actually impressed with of all of them:
View attachment 343969
I have done little to no editing to the images because I wanted to see the rendering of the JPEG engine with the Vivid Creative Style at +2 Contrast, +1 Saturation and +1 Sharpness. (To be honest, I can't remember when or why I chose this setting and that profile, I just put the camera in JPEG only before thinking of anything else).

View attachment 343970
Both of the above images as most of the rest have +1 Ev Exposure in Lightroom because I tend to shoot -0.7 EV on the Exposure Compensation on my Sony a7R II to keep the Highlights from blowing. This is the ONLY image where I feel that is actually sharp and nicely crisp, I don't know if it's the Tamron combo with the Sony camera or just the Sony being old-er that the AF is not as accurate/fast as I hoped (in RAW files I think I can compensate for a tiny bit out of focus better then in JPEGs).

View attachment 343971View attachment 343972
I do quite like the colours on both of these images, not to saturate, though I do prefer the bit warmer White Balance (both were in Auto) on the first. The other issue I noticed with shooting JPEG is that colour fringing is not the best way to deal with, I just tried the Lens Profile Correction, the Manual "Eye-Dropper" AND a brush adjustment with +100 Defringing:
View attachment 343974
It still leaves some of the orange hallo-ing and a bit of blue in the background. (Not sure if this is nit picking or not.)

View attachment 343975
With 0 EV Exposure Compensation, the Highlights do tend to get lost quickly, the image has -100 Highlights and +50 Shadows and there's, unfortunately, banding in the middle of the sky with the clouds:
View attachment 343976
This is why I prefer to underexpose -0.3 EV in very low light, -0.7 EV in daylight (my default) and -1 EV in strong contrast and sunshine.

View attachment 343977
Things are not getting better in Low Light, unsurprisingly, but such is life with wildlife, I pushed the JPEG +1 EV and -50 Highlights (0 EV Exposure Compensation). I can't say I am surprised by the "sharpness" of ISO 16.000.

View attachment 343978
Passing it through Topaz DeNoise AI doesn't seem to help much more than smear the out-of-focus noise a bit, the "sharpness" of the duck is still lacking.

View attachment 343979
High Contrast Low Light situation does not help the JPEG question very much, the noise is noticeable and exposure was difficult to manage, +1 EV, -100 Highlights, and +50 Shadows in Lightroom for ISO 4.000 were a bit much.

View attachment 343981
The Auto White Balance did okayu for the colours but I am not particularly impressed with the loss of detail in the trees below the monument (it was a pretty cool day so there wasn't any heat haze), the JPEG was pushed +1 EV with -100 Highlights and +50 Shadows.

View attachment 343983
This was a difficult situation because the sunset was overwhelming the metering of the camera which has -0.3 EV Exposure Compensation, yet I had to push +3 EV in Lightroom which is a lot for a JPEG file and -50 Highlights, the bottom of the image shadows have been posterized and I don't think they would handle printing very well.

View attachment 343986
I can't make a conclusion on the JPEG question just yet. I do worry that it might end up in another situation like Micro Four Thirds/APS-C VS. 35mm FF/ Medium Format where yes, it can be better and it can show a big improvement BUT you have to accept other downsides as well like cost, weight, size. One would think, but it's not necessarily common sense, that having a bigger/better sensor would give more advantage to JPEG rendition compared to editing RAW of smaller sensors but that can be a fallacy in itself because companies differ in their abilities as well as preferences of how good the JPEG engine they have.
I have never used a Fujifilm, Canon or Nikon system so I can't comment on whether their JPEG file is better or worse (or just different) compared to Sony's. (Though this is the first time I am seriously trying to think about shooting JPEG only/mostly so my previous Pentax, Panasonic and Olympus experiences are not helping to diversify my opinion either.)


(Unnecessary information from this point, just context on what's been swirling inside my head and life). Following Cognitive Behaviour Therapy for the last month and a half in trying to deal with my anxiety problems and the loss of a baby and my partner last year, I have been in a mental state where it's difficult to understand myself or, sometimes, who I am. Photography has been a part (bigger or most of) my life since starting my journey back in 2008. My learning has been very slow for the first 8 years because I could never afford anything beyond the kit lens (and a few adapted lenses) so practice and mistakes have been the greatest teacher I had. After moving to the UK my world has expanded to better cameras, and more lenses, which allowed me to try things I could not do before, like wildlife photography, macro, and action. My photography needs have changed quite abruptly last year as I was getting ready to be a dad and my focus was shifting from my own interests to documenting family and being travel friendly. But that did not happen and I ended up having to deal with a lot of debt (that I am still paying) from a variety of situations that I could not avoid or had to accept to be able to continue living in the UK.
But my photography has been slowly going into the backseat of this ride that my life is right now, from being able to have the free time to actually do it, to the difficulty of finding motivation and (quite literally) the will (to put the camera in my hand or look for a picture to make). I do have days where the excitement and desire for photography (either ideas or projects or just going out) is very strong but it doesn't usually last before the end of the week. Struggling with almost an identity crisis I am afraid (some days) that I might as well abandon photography altogether (I had days where I wanted to sell everything to just be a "normal" and "boring" person and not suffer GAS or "The Photography Itch"). Depression has made it worse with finding motivation, staying at my desk and watching movies with my Little Legs on my chest or just playing World Of Tanks with Little Legs on my lap and trying to be distracted enough from bad thoughts or feelings.
I have tried and I keep trying to find ways to make Photography a bit easier (like the JPEGs) or more engaging (like season ideas), maybe more rewarding (like prints) or trying something new (like portraiture) ... to try and get out of this circle that I found myself in (most of the pictures I have made is of my little Nuggie or the same streets I walk, day in and day out, commuting to work). I might have got my will to live back but I am still trying to find the will to be me right now.
Ovi, I hear you. This is a question that in truth only you can answer. For what it's worth, I only shoot JPEG, and only do 10 seconds edits on my iPad In Apple Photos. This more than satisfies my needs! Will the same approach satisfy your needs? I can't say. Try it out for, say, a week. That might give you a better idea.
Good luck.
ps I have tried RAW and post processing, but couldn't noticeably improve the SOOC JPEGs!
 
So sorry to hear of your hardships, Ovi! Must've been devastating...

As for the question at hand: ruthless culling saves you a ton of work on images you're not going to show off in the end. Having a bit of time between shooting and culling can help. Ask yourself, what story is this image telling? Assuming a limited attention span with my audience, what images do I REALLY want them to see?

On once in a lifetime trips, I try (and often fail, but still, I try) to end up with no more than 10 images per day for showing to friends and family. Now that'll regularly balloon to 15 images, but then on less exciting days, 2-5 images is easily enough - and entire months pass by with me not even touching my camera, only taking casual phone snaps from time to time, and I managed to stop feeling guilty over that. The true "portfolio images" that I might want to print, will be even fewer - maybe three a day on good days of special trips, and probably less than one a month in daily life.

I personally shoot raw + jpeg. After shooting, I cull in several rounds (often over several days or weeks), share any jpegs I feel like sharing (occasionally after a pass through the camera's internal raw converter to change some settings), and don't touch the raws until I've sat with an image long enough to decide it's truly portfolio worthy. Or, on rare occasions, if there's a reason to deliver the best image possible to friends or family on short notice.
 
When doing street photography it's very easy to handle the output, I get one shot for the static subject unless I experiment with different perspectives and compositions, and I go for about 3 to 5 if it's trying to get the right moment if it's action (like walking into the light or aligning different subjects on a composition, where one or more subjects are moving).

The hardest part to deal with file handling is action and wildlife.
I've been wanting to do pet portrait photography for some years now as I find pets a lot more friendly then people (and that's because of me more then anyone else). But getting the right moment with dogs running around is very taxing on the AF-C and Tracking of the camera, the lens AF motor and the buffer of the camera. There's little doubt that in such a case gear will mater more then skill (similar to why I have never seen a Ford Focus win a F1 race ... If not for the fact that I never watch sports in my life). But for such a case shooting JPEG only makes the culling and processing easier, it won't help the process of image making itself easier except for being more forgiving on the buffer of the camera.

For wildlife ... Well have come to the conclusion that a sacrifice to the Gods might be necessary to grand them the favour of a lazy animal to just dance for the spectacle of the masses :p
 
First off, I'm glad to hear of your therapy and I hope it's having a good effect. Heaven knows it was needed after the stuff you went through. It may take time to readjust your perception and expectations of yourself post-therapy (I don't have personal experience to back me up here, just what I've read and heard about, so feel free to take these words for absolutely nothin', but I think cognitive behavioral therapy is often the way forward).

I'm always too scared to shoot JPEG only, from my early experiences where I screwed things up or else the subject was just too much for the capabilities of JPEG output from certain cameras, so I am stuck with photos which don't look good and no way of redeeming them except trying to recreate them. Of course, newer cameras have better JPEG engines, and I've used a few where I'd actually be satisfied to only keep the JPEG (the Ricoh GR III series cameras are the standout for me, and the Olympus EM5II is actually - for the old 16mp M4/3 sensor anyway - really satisfactory as well). But habit now has me wanting to keep the RAWs. Also, I might want to adjust the RAW file into a few different subtly different JPEGs and you can't do that once you've made the exposure unless you shot RAW.

I can get the desire to simplify, speed up processing and maintain less space for archiving, though. Especially since getting the 36mp Pentax K-1 II. I'm not sure what the answer is, really, but what I'm leaning to is:
  • always look out for cheap, dependable storage.
  • get JPEG output as good as the camera is capable of outputting.
  • offload RAW files to storage quickly and forget about them unless you need them.
That doesn't work for everyone, and I haven't put it into practice more than about 40% of the time yet, but it's where I think I'm headed.
 
I can't make a conclusion on the JPEG question just yet.
Do you need to? If it helps any, my way of dealing with all this is to shoot raw+jpeg, only copy worthwhile jpegs from the SD card, and pull the raw over only if jpeg processing hits limitations. There are exceptions—I'll turn off raw if the extra fps are needed and I'll copy the raw if it's a particularly critical image or if it's high enough ISO—but most images do fine with the SOOC raw development or with minimal adjustments.
 
I always shoot RAW+JPEG.

That said, I almost never display any image here that isn't basically an OoC JPEG. I use RAWs for printing and heavy editing. My PP, such as it is, is limited to automatic Photoshop Actions (macros) that perform absolutely standard processes on every image, add an '_Ew' suffix, then save them into a separate upload folder. I pick these up with FileZilla FTP program and dump them on my web site. Bog standard, no frippery involved.

As for your computer problems.

Is Windows set up as Microsoft default, or properly?

Bridge and Photoshop only really give up memory if you close and reopen them. I assume that Lightroom is no better.

Can you upgrade your RAM to 32 or 64GB? This is specially important if your graphics card is using system RAM.

That will do for now.
 
I have just made a discovery that may solve most of the problems, well maybe except for the RAW editing process. I was editing older pictures and as I fell on files from my (now sold) Sony a7C I noticed that Lightroom and Windows itself were snapping about happily with no lag and no waiting, I checked on my monitoring software and RAM usage dropped from 15.8 GB to 12.3 to 13.5 GB and the Page File Swapping has stopped completely. That's from editing 24 MP RAW files (it was the same with my Panasonic G9 RAW files, for the few months that I owned that camera).
I do believe, full-heartedly, now that the bottleneck is at the RAM usage because of the 42 MP files (I have tried Compressed and Uncompressed and it doesn't seem to matter)

I always shoot RAW+JPEG.

That said, I almost never display any image here that isn't basically an OoC JPEG. I use RAWs for printing and heavy editing. My PP, such as it is, is limited to automatic Photoshop Actions (macros) that perform absolutely standard processes on every image, add an '_Ew' suffix, then save them into a separate upload folder. I pick these up with FileZilla FTP program and dump them on my web site. Bog standard, no frippery involved.

As for your computer problems.

Is Windows set up as Microsoft default, or properly?

Bridge and Photoshop only really give up memory if you close and reopen them. I assume that Lightroom is no better.

Can you upgrade your RAM to 32 or 64GB? This is specially important if your graphics card is using system RAM.

That will do for now.
I have optimised Windows to the bone (there was a time that you had to go through the Registry of the system to do that) to get the most out of my laptop, even undervolting the CPU (but they locked that capability out with a BIOS update 12 months after the release of the laptop and why I am so crossed with ASUS, never again will I trust them). I even tried the End Task Tree of processes that will not obey me but it's not enough.

There's only one way I can upgrade the RAM, and only to 32GB, and that's by getting a different motherboard for the laptop. This laptop came in only 2 flavours: the i9 9980H (8 Core 16 Threads) with 32GB DDR4 and RTX 2060 and the i7 9750 H (6 Core 12 Threads) with 16GB DDR4 RTX 2060. They went so far as to lock the 32GB RAM to the i9 model only, which was 700 £ more expensive at that time (from the 2.500 £ "base" model) and in all tests and reviews the i9 would throttle thermally that it was slower than i7 on everything but single core usage. Asus representatives lied to me because I talked to them for weeks before buying it on launch day and they promised that the RAM is upgradable, it is not, it is soldered onto the motherboard and under the keyboard and 2nd screen so you can't access it unless you take the whole thing apart. The graphics card has dedicated 6GB VRAM, it doesn't use any of the RAM of the system.

I have checked on EvilBay and there are motherboards with i9 and 32GB for sale, only from USA, for 700 £:
1666873353062.png

I am unsure if I want to get one or not. (I could try and sell the i7 motherboard to offload some of the cost but I don't think they sell very often or for a lot of money, and because of all the proprietary connectors I doubt I have the skills to turn the spare motherboard into a mini PC)
 
I always shoot RAW+JPEG.

That said, I almost never display any image here that isn't basically an OoC JPEG. I use RAWs for printing and heavy editing. My PP, such as it is, is limited to automatic Photoshop Actions (macros) that perform absolutely standard processes on every image, add an '_Ew' suffix, then save them into a separate upload folder. I pick these up with FileZilla FTP program and dump them on my web site. Bog standard, no frippery involved.

As for your computer problems.

Is Windows set up as Microsoft default, or properly?

Bridge and Photoshop only really give up memory if you close and reopen them. I assume that Lightroom is no better.

Can you upgrade your RAM to 32 or 64GB? This is specially important if your graphics card is using system RAM.

That will do for now.
"Is Windows set up as Microsoft default, or properly?" 😅😂🤣😆😅😁
 
After years of shooting RAW I made the change this year to shoot jpeg only. I am very happy with the decision and don’t see myself going back. One change I made in camera (Panasonic) is to turn on iDynamic Auto. This helps a bit in high dynamic range situations.
 
I have just made a discovery that may solve most of the problems, well maybe except for the RAW editing process. I was editing older pictures and as I fell on files from my (now sold) Sony a7C I noticed that Lightroom and Windows itself were snapping about happily with no lag and no waiting, I checked on my monitoring software and RAM usage dropped from 15.8 GB to 12.3 to 13.5 GB and the Page File Swapping has stopped completely. That's from editing 24 MP RAW files (it was the same with my Panasonic G9 RAW files, for the few months that I owned that camera).
I do believe, full-heartedly, now that the bottleneck is at the RAM usage because of the 42 MP files (I have tried Compressed and Uncompressed and it doesn't seem to matter)


I have optimised Windows to the bone (there was a time that you had to go through the Registry of the system to do that) to get the most out of my laptop, even undervolting the CPU (but they locked that capability out with a BIOS update 12 months after the release of the laptop and why I am so crossed with ASUS, never again will I trust them). I even tried the End Task Tree of processes that will not obey me but it's not enough.

There's only one way I can upgrade the RAM, and only to 32GB, and that's by getting a different motherboard for the laptop. This laptop came in only 2 flavours: the i9 9980H (8 Core 16 Threads) with 32GB DDR4 and RTX 2060 and the i7 9750 H (6 Core 12 Threads) with 16GB DDR4 RTX 2060. They went so far as to lock the 32GB RAM to the i9 model only, which was 700 £ more expensive at that time (from the 2.500 £ "base" model) and in all tests and reviews the i9 would throttle thermally that it was slower than i7 on everything but single core usage. Asus representatives lied to me because I talked to them for weeks before buying it on launch day and they promised that the RAM is upgradable, it is not, it is soldered onto the motherboard and under the keyboard and 2nd screen so you can't access it unless you take the whole thing apart. The graphics card has dedicated 6GB VRAM, it doesn't use any of the RAM of the system.

I have checked on EvilBay and there are motherboards with i9 and 32GB for sale, only from USA, for 700 £:
View attachment 344381
I am unsure if I want to get one or not. (I could try and sell the i7 motherboard to offload some of the cost but I don't think they sell very often or for a lot of money, and because of all the proprietary connectors I doubt I have the skills to turn the spare motherboard into a mini PC)
That's exactly why I am wedded to desktop PCs, Ovi (actually medium tower cases under the desk ... ). They are almost infinitely configurable and upgradeable. And they run far cooler ...

Decent tablets and smartphones fill in the gaps.
 
That's exactly why I am wedded to desktop PCs, Ovi (actually medium tower cases under the desk ... ). They are almost infinitely configurable and upgradeable. And they run far cooler ...

Decent tablets and smartphones fill in the gaps.
I have lived in 3 countries, 6 cities and 13 addresses for the last 20 years. I average 1.5 years per address, I have owned a ATX and mATX tower and 2 laptops over the span of 20 years and it's a "insert any groovy Austin Power swear word" to move parts of a country or even a whole country with them. Hence I went with a laptop this time around. It did serve me well enough for 4 years (well with some moaning as well).
Almost losing the (Housing Association rent) house last year reminded me that I am never safe.

Luckily the computing power has improved dramatically and it's a lot easier to build a small, portable and powerful PC.
DDR5 has arrived (while not cheap, yet) and you can have 128GB of RAM with just 2 sticks (mini ITX build anyone?)
M.2 SSDs have finally broke the 2TB limit.
GPU performance has almost quadrupled per Watt of TDP (thermally as well as raw performance).
The issue with current/new generation of CPUs is that they are pushing the thermal envelope to the limit to compete with each other and the high end CPUs end up pushing over 250W on all core loads, which is water cooling requirements at that point, hard to do in a small case.

And then there's always, The One, The Magical, The Benevolent Tumour: Windows
 
My graphics card has a huge heat sink, and dual fans.
My I7-12700 CPU has the standard Intel heat sink and fan.
DDR4 is cheaper, cooler, and more reliable.

Nothing gets more than mildly warm (30°C).

Power consumption is not high when it's idling - about 90%+ of the time, because it's so fast ...

Full build details here:

 
The present hardware discussion feels off topic to a raw-jpeg thread but I guess a few notes wouldn't be excessive:
  • The two fan GPU referred to above is a GTX 1660 Ti, a low power GPU with a correspondingly minimal thermal solution―at 206 mm x 2.3 slots it's decidedly compact among AICs―and low idle draw.
  • Processor temperatures in the low 30s °C are routine and not indicative of cooling performance. The Laminar RM1 included with the 12700 is characteristic of stock downflow coolers, running warm (~40 °C ΔT at 65 W) and loud (> 40 dB(A)) compared to low cost alternatives.
  • The claim above about desktop parts running cooler than mobile ones is broadly incorrect. Desktop parts are fabbed and operated for throughput, not energy efficiency, and that results in increased idle and active draws. If the intent was to refer to core temperatures, those vary with cooling solutions and noise-normalized comparisons are likely of greater interest.
  • The DD5 temperature and reliability claims have been made before, questioned before, and do not appear to be data driven.
I do believe, full-heartedly, now that the bottleneck is at the RAM usage because of the 42 MP files (I have tried Compressed and Uncompressed and it doesn't seem to matter).
Whether stored as compressed or uncompressed file, the image data will be uncompressed in memory. In memory, 42 MP as RGBA with 32 bit color is 670 MB. Since competent software should be able to manipulate that within 16 GB DDR without difficulty I'd suggest monitoring memory consumption in your workflows. That should help considerably with diagnosis and enable informed decision making about whether to change workflow, software, or hardware.
 
My graphics card has a huge heat sink, and dual fans.
My I7-12700 CPU has the standard Intel heat sink and fan.
DDR4 is cheaper, cooler, and more reliable.

Nothing gets more than mildly warm (30°C).

Power consumption is not high when it's idling - about 90%+ of the time, because it's so fast ...

Full build details here:

That's a really good system, it should give you going for about 5-6 years.
The CPU is really good and efficient, at 6 performance cores it can handle 6 files at once for import and export (same as mine) it will have really good IPC (instructions per clock, better than my lonely i7 9750H). Be on the lookout for the CPU on Windows 10, anything older than Windows 10 will have issues scheduling those efficient cores. To get the most out of Intel's new platform with mixed cores Windows 11 is recommended because it has a new scheduler for the mixed CPU types (I know it's not the most loved platform but unfortunately it's how Microsoft rolls). Also be very careful about cloning OS'es from one platform to another or worse, upgrading the platform afterwards. Windows have special handlers for SSDs (compared to mechanical hard drives) and if you try to force one build to another you may end up trashing your SSD because you "forced" Windows to operate like on a mechanical hard drive (where Windows will not allocate the data in the best way to keep SSDs healthy).
When changing from one platform to another (like switching brands like Intel to AMD and vice versa, changing from an older platform to a newer one, like Z290 to Z490 or Z690, or changing from one type of storage to another, like HDD to SSD or M.2 NVME or SATA) it's best to start with a fresh install of Windows. It will be safer that way, trust me.
Your GPU is not that of my mobile version of RTX 2060 in terms of performance, but I use my GPU mostly for gaming since I don't do video editing.

I might be going with an older platform like yours for the price cost if the inflation keeps going up, what used to be one decent PC 1.000 £ 5 years ago now barely gets you a mid-range GPU (and that's before you consider the overall inflation cost of those 5 years)
 
The present hardware discussion feels off topic to a raw-jpeg thread but I guess a few notes wouldn't be excessive:
  • The two fan GPU referred to above is a GTX 1660 Ti, a low power GPU with a correspondingly minimal thermal solution―at 206 mm x 2.3 slots it's decidedly compact among AICs―and low idle draw.
  • Processor temperatures in the low 30s °C are routine and not indicative of cooling performance. The Laminar RM1 included with the 12700 is characteristic of stock downflow coolers, running warm (~40 °C ΔT at 65 W) and loud (> 40 dB(A)) compared to low cost alternatives.
  • The claim above about desktop parts running cooler than mobile ones is broadly incorrect. Desktop parts are fabbed and operated for throughput, not energy efficiency, and that results in increased idle and active draws. If the intent was to refer to core temperatures, those vary with cooling solutions and noise-normalized comparisons are likely of greater interest.
  • The DD5 temperature and reliability claims have been made before, questioned before, and do not appear to be data driven.

Whether stored as compressed or uncompressed file, the image data will be uncompressed in memory. In memory, 42 MP as RGBA with 32 bit color is 670 MB. Since competent software should be able to manipulate that within 16 GB DDR without difficulty I'd suggest monitoring memory consumption in your workflows. That should help considerably with diagnosis and enable informed decision making about whether to change workflow, software, or hardware.
You are right. Because if the new fire of competition between Intel and AMD, the performance is being pushed to the limit yo try and outperforme each other. Intel's new Raptor Lake 13XXX series is pushing the thermals to 95 C in most heavy core loads and uses over 240 W on their i9 which is what you would expect (thermally) from mobile devices. It's a similar case with nVidia's RTX 4XXX series where they push the temperatures closer or even above 100 C and have huge power draws.
Desktops are incredibly powerful but they are becoming also very expensive to run IF you do have a high end machine that is.

Where mobile devices go is at the efficiency end where they squeeze every performance at maximum thermal load they can push them within a very efficient Wattage budget. If it's USB C charged device that will be 100 W budget for the entire machine, while laptops with dedicated bricks top around 250 W (with workstations and gaming beasts topping around 400 W, sometimes needing 2 power bricks to actually performe to spec).

In computing you have a Ven diagram with 3 components: Thermal budget (which dictates size of the device), Power budget (which dictates battery life and portability), and Performance Expectations (which dictates cost of the device).
You can expect 2 within reason to overlap but you can't have all 3 of them unless you have unlimited budget with little to no portability need and a lot of space.
And I s£&" you not you can warm up a big room in a very coldstatiatics (temperature, winter just by gaming for a few hours on a high end machine (or crunching some 3D renders or encoding videos).


Anywho I will do an experiment later today. I am going right now to a friend's (tiny) wedding to photograph it and when I get home I wil load up a new Lightroom Catalogue, import and edit the RAW 42 MP files while recording a log of the systems statistics (power usage, resources usage, temperatures) and I will share them here.
 
I will load up a new Lightroom Catalogue, import and edit the RAW 42 MP files while recording a log of the systems statistics (power usage, resources usage, temperatures) and I will share them here.
Cool, curious how that will turn out.

A couple minor remarks:
  • Intel's thermal throttle's been at 100 °C for some time—95 °C is a common Ryzen hard throttle choice—and the 13900K is measured to 296 W (Gamers Nexus) and 335 W (AnandTech) PL4. Whichever of the duopoly's been behind on marketing benchmarks has leaned on desktop thermals for a long time, so Intel's present behavior is nothing new. What is new-ish is regular desktop parts (as opposed to HEDT, workstation, or server processors) requiring water cooling to sustain full power at stock settings.
  • I think there's public Lovelace data only for the 4090, with the Founder's Edition core running around 50 °C ΔT with 45 °C for the GDDR and 60 °C for the hot spot. Perhaps you're thinking more of poorly cooled Ampere GDDR, whether backside or on less than great implementations like 3080 FE?
My main objection to pushing power in mobile form factors is the resulting fan noise, though the heatsinks do get kinda heavy if you're moving the machine often. Not a big deal for occasionally bursty workloads or if you're wearing headphones with no one else around. At work we tend to use laptops for low power tasks and remote into higher power mid-towers. For my own computing tasks I just let my personal laptop go at 10 W for a few seconds longer, which is fine as I seldom do renders or video processing and Helicon's pretty efficient in getting through 300+ frame focus stacks.
 
  • The DD5 temperature and reliability claims have been made before, questioned before, and do not appear to be data driven.
That is the experience of the techs who build and service these PCs at one of Australia's largest hardware suppliers and service centres. If they cock up builds, they have to wear the warranty claims ... And we have pretty solid consumer protection laws here in Australia.

Their opinion is that neither DDR5 nor motherboard design that uses the chips is sufficiently reliable for practical use at the present time.

Personally, I take actual practical experience over theoretical maunderings by reviewers every time.

You can quote "data driven" claims all you like. As a CPA, I tend to look at the costings associated with decision making.

[Edit] After 9 hours building a new Bridge cache for Bridge 2023 for over 100,000 images, during which the GPU was running at 90% most of the time, with the CPU cores mostly running at 20-50%, the GPU temperature didn't move out of the 30-31°C range. Nothing got hot. Certainly nothing like the temperatures you have been quoting. Perhaps this gives some credence to my previously expressed views on making "a balanced build"?

Now that the initial cache build has been completed, I can recall all images with a specific keyword all but instantly. Isn't that the aim of the exercise?

[End edit]
 
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That's a really good system, it should give you going for about 5-6 years.
The CPU is really good and efficient, at 6 performance cores it can handle 6 files at once for import and export (same as mine) it will have really good IPC (instructions per clock, better than my lonely i7 9750H).
Windows 10 Pro 64 seems to handle task spreading (threads) well on the new PC. After all, Windows NT was designed from the ground up for multi-CPU, multi-thread operation (See Helen Cutler "Inside Windows NT" first edition; she is both a programmer and wife of the chief programmer on the Windows NT project.).

The I7-12700 has 8 cores plus 4 general purpose cores, allowing for 16 threads plus 4 on the general purpose cores; 20 threads in total.

BTW, the I7-12700 was only released a couple of months ago, ditto the Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Pro DDR4 gaming motherboard.
Your GPU is not that of my mobile version of RTX 2060 in terms of performance, but I use my GPU mostly for gaming since I don't do video editing.
But it is more than fast enough, and more than capable enough for my uses.
I might be going with an older platform like yours for the price cost if the inflation keeps going up, what used to be one decent PC 1.000 £ 5 years ago now barely gets you a mid-range GPU (and that's before you consider the overall inflation cost of those 5 years)
The next step up was about another AUD$2,500 for an I9-12700, Z690/DDR5 motherboard, DDR5 RAM, 12GB DDR6 graphics card. About double the price for minimal performance gains IRL.
Bragging rights, maybe - performance improvement, maybe 10%!!

Money better spent on more DDR4 RAM if needed - it does not appear to be needed ... And/or bigger HDDs; and/or a second (or third or fourth ... ) NVMe SSD. None of these things are/were necessary, as post commissioning testing clearly shows.

Theory should always bear some relationship to practice (loosely quoted from Sidebotham "Fundamentals of Accounting").
 
Ovi, I've just downloaded 6 RAW files from DPR's tests of this camera (Sony A7r MkII). These are located on my new Seagate 4 TB Ironwolf HDD, NOT on my NVMe SSD. These are 41 MB each, approx.

In Bridge, it takes about 1-2 seconds to open the preview at 100%. From there, ACR opens the image all but instantaneously in ProPhotoRGB 16 bit.

Click to open in Photoshop CC 2023, and again, it's all but instantaneous.

Both the Bridge and ACR caches are on the 1 TB NVMe SSD, and it's extremely fast. Ditto for the Photoshop scratch disk.

Now, I'm running all sorts of other crap as well as these programs, but physical memory use is just over 17 GB while doing the above. Stopping Outlook, Brave browser, PIE Studio, FastStone Viewer and OM Workspace and a few other miscellaneous programs would have brought this well under 16 GB of physical memory.

I do not know how Lightroom handles its database, this might be your problem?

Have you tried using Bridge and Photoshop CC? If so, what were the results?
 
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