Film What FILM (!) photography related item did you buy this week?

Location
Switzerland
Real Name
Matt
I seriously splurged today - and did a full-pack Monochrome shootout between the Fujifilm Classic Neo 90 and the Leica Sofort. Quite a bit of fun - and instructive, too.

DSC_2975.jpg


The most important thing: Their IQ is so similar that I needed to break out the big loupe to check if my impressions were correct - here's the pair of them with the key comparison shot:

DSC_2974.jpg


The key findings: The lenses on those two cameras are so similar that it would be impossible to tell results apart if you couldn't look at them side by side. However, there actually *is* a difference: The Neo 90's lens renders a tad contrastier, yet with slightly less sharpness at the grain; the Sofort's lens is just a tad sharper, but gives you a somewhat smoother, less punchy image. The signatures are slight, but consistent. I'll check with colour film next, though - it's still possible that the status of the film pack made as much of a difference as the lens, if not more. I'm pleased to say that both cameras can produce worthwhile images. I ended up scanning 10 of the 20 shots - that's a pretty good show!

It's worth noting here that shots at greater distances taken at the "infinity" setting are sharper overall than shots at "normal" distances from both cameras; it probably pays to use the flash more often than I did at that setting. More to the point: The "infinity" setting is the strong range of those lenses - which may be counter-intuitive, but it's what I see.

The most surprising aspect however was that the two cameras are clearly geared towards different use cases, which is reflected in their layout as well as the ease with which you're able to use certain features. Here's the summary:
  • The Neo 90 has a dedicated macro button, but makes it tedious to get to infinity (it's buried in the Mode series); it defaults to "normal" (0.6-3m). Its layout is optimised for portrait shooting (as is the Instax Mini film). This camera is best suited for close-up and portrait distance shooting - people shots! It's also worth remembering that it has a slight advantage when taking backlit shots (the "strong overexposure" setting - just +1 EV).
  • The Sofort makes it super-easy to get to infinity, while close-up mode is way down in the Mode menu. It's much more straightforward to shoot than the Neo 90 - less "gadgety", so to speak. Its layout is intended for landscape shooting - and in spite of the Neo 90's two shutter release buttons, the Sofort's feels better placed for that purpose as well. Interestingly, the Sofort also has a dedicated "selfie" mode that I've used "successfully" (apart from my mug being completely unpresentable today, so I haven't bothered with scanning the image, but you can get a glimpse of it in the image above). It seems to work better than the Neo 90's close-up mode you have to highjack for that purpose. I'm not one to use scene modes, though - but it's good to know you could.
Final words? I'm still pretty certain I'll move on the Neo 90 - but for those of you who consider either camera, if you're into photographing people, that camera might actually be the better pick for you.

M.
 
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tonyturley

Legend
Location
Scott Depot, WV, USA
Real Name
Tony
The camera I waited much too long to acquire:

View attachment 250045

Full film test pending (it arrived only today ...).

M.
I passed up a great deal on one of those in an obscure thrift shop in a small, rural town several years ago. At the time, I didn't realize just what a good deal it was, and apparently, neither did the proprietors. I'm sure it didn't last long.
 

jssaraiva

Top Veteran
Location
Porto, Portugal
Real Name
José
The camera I waited much too long to acquire:

View attachment 250045

Full film test pending (it arrived only today ...).

M.

Great purchase!

The K4B / 3.5B / MX-EVS has been my favorite Rollei (flex/cord), even if I can’t say I have a very broad experience. I have a type 2 that has been CLA’d last month by coincidence. It is significantly lighter and smaller than my 3.5F.

I did however change the focus screen for a much brighter one and with a central split and that made a huge difference. I did it myself, if you or anyone want any tips on this, just let me know.

Up until that point I preferred using the Rolleicord Vb (lighter and with brighter screen) but have since sold the two I had.

EB973555-6AEC-4FAA-83BE-6B1CC3036AD4.jpeg
 
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Location
Switzerland
Real Name
Matt
I did however change the focus screen for a much brighter one and with a central split and that made a huge difference. I did it myself, if you or anyone want any tips on this, just let me know.
I'm certainly interested, even though I probably lack the skills and self-confidence to do it myself - but maybe I might, or I'll find someone to do it for me.

Apart from focusing, I love everything about this camera so far, its handling, its size ... It's just great. And even though many look down on it, it's a Tessar (I actually own that very lens in a different camera - the Super Ikonta 531/16 - and simply adore it; I'm an unashamed Tessar buff ...).

M.
 

jssaraiva

Top Veteran
Location
Porto, Portugal
Real Name
José
I'm certainly interested, even though I probably lack the skills and self-confidence to do it myself - but maybe I might, or I'll find someone to do it for me.

Apart from focusing, I love everything about this camera so far, its handling, its size ... It's just great. And even though many look down on it, it's a Tessar [...]

I’m not a skillful person for this sort of stuff, but this requires just a bit of skill. The problem could be that you might need some specific tools and that can increase the cost. Then there are actually only two tricky points:
1) to put back in place the two springs that hold the screen, without scratching it;
2) the height can need to be micro adjusted for proper focus calibration; I have not felt the need for this with the JIN Industries one, but sample variation can occur.

I've done it with support from this video

And here are a few pics of my setup, but unfortunately it doesn’t show that well the tools used. Please see the tweezers metal is protected with electrical take to avoid scratching the screen when picking it up and the glove so I don’t touch it when supporting it or pushing it out.

CB2EA22E-CE8B-4C1F-9744-CDF843B959CC.jpeg


F072B29A-EB75-4473-8CDA-A55432979567.jpeg


39F38F00-F3C1-411F-A19C-AC84FFE37DC6.jpeg
 
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jssaraiva

Top Veteran
Location
Porto, Portugal
Real Name
José
Corrected a few errors above, written on the phone...

Also, the screen has a more matte side. I’m not sure how to say which side is up as I also flip it on the process, but the reference should be the old screen and just apply it to the new being installed.
 

AndyMcD

Top Veteran
The camera I waited much too long to acquire:

View attachment 250045

Full film test pending (it arrived only today ...).

M.
Looks beautiful @MoonMind . I have my late father's 2.8f, which looks pretty beaten up but works flawlessly (thanks to a full service from a company in Liverpool). I love shooting with mine, I find it very relaxing and love how the pictures look from it.
 
Well, bought a Widelux today.

I really, really wanted a Widelux 1500 (the medium format version) but after searching high and low in Tokyo for one a couple of years ago, one of the camera shop owners told me that while the Wideluxes were indeed made in Japan, the 1500 was developed and marketed for the overseas market only. So I was in the wrong country, it would be difficult to find a 1500 in Japan.

The Widelux I bought today is the regular Widelux (not the 1500). Should receive it next week some time.
 
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Well, bought a Widelux today.

I really, really wanted a Widelux 1500 (the medium format version) but after searching high and low in Tokyo for one a couple of years ago, one of the camera shop owners told me that while the Wideluxes were indeed made in Japan, the 1500 was developed and marketed for the overseas market only. So I was in the wrong country, it would be difficult to find a 1500 in Japan.

The Widelux I bought today is the regular Widelux (not the 1500). Should receive it next week some time.


Widelux arrived today and almost immediately I noticed a stuttering movement with the turret at 1/15 shutter speed. Very annoyed. Going to return to the seller. All up, I paid $35 for the privilege of postage to receive and return this thing.
 

jssaraiva

Top Veteran
Location
Porto, Portugal
Real Name
José
Nominated for stupidest purchase ever. A body cap for my Bronica RF645 for c. 120 Eur.

I was long looking to buy such cap, so I could carry the camera (that without lens is pretty thin) on a reduced footprint messenger bag on a daily basis. I have the 65mm and 45mm lenses and so upon reaching some location, this setup would also make me select the best fitted lens while currently I’m a bit lazy to change from the by default mounted 65mm that is pretty flexible.

So after looking for months for a more reasonable price, I gave up and ordered a 70 USD one from Hong-Kong that with transport, duties and custom service amounted to a, on its own, stupid amount of 120 Eur.

Still, this would give me the possibility to use a smaller bag, so I was willing to just forget the cost matter. Upon trying to set up the new bag, I was not able to find the lens rear cap. So I was facing once more a costly purchase to go forward with this.

However I remembered that it could be on its box as I bought the kit with all original boxes. It was store on the garage and it really was there! Together with the original body cap as you might have concluded at this point.........

Here is my Bronica RF645 and its TWO body caps, together with my Mamiya 7ii for size/portability comparison purposes (with their normal/standard 65mm and 80mm lenses respectively):

99C239D6-991A-4B22-A893-CFC1140B4F76.jpeg
 
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