Windsports, Hood River OR

KillRamsey

Hall of Famer
Location
Hood River, OR
Name
Kyle
Just walked down on my lunch break to the river to shoot kiteboarders and windsurfers out in the Columbia. These were taken with the XT1 and XC-50-230, and haven't been touched, cropped, etc. Taken 40 minutes ago. Experimented with AFC and Wide/Tracking, settled on all AFS with some wide/tracking and some not.

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by gordopuggy, on Flickr

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In good light, you've got no complaints. The stabilization is plenty if you hold it decently well (and you will). It's more than sharp enough. The backgrounds only suffer a tiny bit if you pixel peep. I usually set my aperture at 7.1 so it just stays constant throughout the zoom. A few times this weekend I spotted someone walking up near me to photograph the same things I was, with Fuji gear, and inevitably with a shorter lens on. Both times I said "hey - wanna try this?" and offered the XC. Both seemed impressed. Best $180 I've spent on Fuji gear.

Favorite shot with that lens:
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by gordopuggy, on Flickr
 
Not in the wilds of OR, I hope. :D
Vicious, those river-dwelling Oregon lions. Tear kiteboarders to shreds.

A running dog is probably a lot like the kiteboards. For that, I tended to use...

AFS (counter-intuitive, but it works for me)
AF box about 3 clicks up from smallest size, and whenever possible in one of the good center (fast) locations
Shutter speed as fast as you reasonably ca without going electronic (rolling shutter!), so 2000-4000, with 4,000 the max on an XT1

And then I just press and shoot once with him in the box. That's a high hit rate for me.
 
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If he's moving laterally, and not getting closer or farther, you're good at 8fps there too. In Continuous High, the focus is locked on the first shot til you let up.
 
Sorry, I got a bit more time to type.


I should say also that I have used the wide/tracking settings here and there since they came out some years ago, with mixed success. So I’m not Unfamiliar with them, but I’m also not overly familiar with them. In the case of this past week down at the river, I dove back in (bad metaphor there, really sorry) and tried again to see if it worked better than the old settings above. Here’s what I recall:


Wide/Tracking (with cam in AFC): It stayed out of focus in the viewfinder about 90% of the time, period. I’d snap a shot anyway, and about 25% those were actually in focus upon later review, but trying to frame them live was beyond frustrating, looking through fuzzy blur. So then I went to AFS.


Wide/Tracking (with cam in AFS): I’d change the box size and location to suit me, and track the guy out there coming at me at some sort of angle. The little green tracking boxes would sprinkle themselves about the frame, never really firmly corresponding to the subject, but then the viewfinder showed everything nice and focused. I’d say about half of those were actually in focus, maybe a little more. It was usable, but not awesome. Could well be that I’m not using the system the best way.


Single-point AFS: This is my comfort zone. This is what I know. So this is what I wind up going back to, to get the shots. The trick here is to get the box as small as you can afford to, so it hits your subject and not the trees 1.5 miles behind him, but to keep it large enough to pull that focus in relatively quickly (more pixels). Just experiment with it. The other key here is to move that box RELIGIOUSLY with the 4-way keys out back – you have the XT1, if I recall? The 2 got a joystick that I’d loooove to have, for this purpose. Meanwhile on the Xt1, go into your settings and take over the 4-way keys to instantly move your AF point. That lets you shift that AF down into the corner. A quick example:


I see this guy coming in, and I want to shoot him all the way over to the left side of the frame. The distance is changing as he comes in – I can’t leave the AF point at center / half-press / reframe, because he’d be a little out of focus by the time I did. So I stab the left and down keys to scooch that box over down there, and then just pan with him as he comes closer, zooming out slightly as he gets closer and closer. Each individual shutter press, the camera reassesses focus the split second it fires the shutter, and I’m manually taking about 2 shots a second, reframing and adjusting zoom slightly as he comes across. As long as I start off with him in focus, the entire set of 6-10 shots would come in sharp. If the camera grabbed the trees on the far shore, it generally stayed back there.


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by gordopuggy, on Flickr


So as I close in on each new person coming towards me, I’m adjusting that AF point allll over the place. Vertical shots, then horizontal, and more than half my shots at least do NOT have the subject in the center.
 
I FOUND BLUE HOODIE GUY IN REAL LIFE! I'm so happy.

I was in a local windsport shop this morning, ordering some electric bike parts, and it occurred to me - they might know him. I showed his picture to one guy, who said "wait, TJ will know him, let's show it to him." TJ took one look and spat his name out - knew him well. He gave me his name, I looked him up on facebook, connected, and sent him 12 or 13 pics. And he likes them! Somehow this makes me very happy.
 
He tipped me off that he'd be back today at lunch. Managed to snap a few while getting sprayed mercilessly by waves hitting the rock jetty. Really, really have to remember the rain jacket everytime.

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I also took a few videos. The xc50-230 was not a lot of fun to shoot video with. Rarely was he in focus, so that eventually I shot on in manual focus, which, while still difficult, at least worked.
 
Spring has sprung again, the winds are up, it's 60's / 70's each day, and my buddy tipped me off he'd be back out today on the river. I used the 50-230, the 56, and even a little of the 35 1.4, though few of those wound up being keepers.

Notes to Future Me:

1. At f2, the 56 is sharper than the 50-230. But at 1.2, it isn't... slightly hazy, visible on the kite lines. Leave it at f2-f4.
2. The circ polarizer on the 56 is a good thing.
3. The 56 is about the right length to get the jumps when he comes at the jetty, with some scenery. Forget the 35.
4. Keep that focus box on the last 2 smallest sizes!
5. Disproportionate number of keepers from the 56. Focus is faster, results are sharper. Always pack it! But don't rely on it, the 50-230 still gets things nothing else but the 100-400 could.

Ok enough note taking. Here's what I got...

Via the 50-230:
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by gordopuggy, on Flickr


Via the 56:

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And one SOOC JPG for the peepers...
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by gordopuggy, on Flickr
 
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