Firstly, on Rays advice, I have it on quick start, and have turned off the power save, which means either the display or viewfinder is on all the time. Drains the battery, but there's none of the very slow waking from sleep.Please post on this thread any setup ideas you have with your camera.
It would be good to also explain how you are working and how you found different things.
I'm a died-in-the-wool raw man and always have been, but Ray is absolutely right about the X100 jpgs. They are incredibly good. Somehow Fuji have worked out how to get smooth skies with no luminance noise and yet keep everything else sharp. And I mean sharp. I don't mean some sharpening added because they have loaded on the NR and then need to try and get some detail back, with the resulting nasty processed look that many in-camera jpgs have. I have yet to get a raw file looking as good as the jpgs. I've also found that you can recover a hell of lot of shadow detail from these jpgs without adding lots of noise. I had this problem 2 days ago when I shot only jpgs.(Probably because I pressed the raw button) Initially I was disappointed, but the jpgs are so good that I've converted them to .dng files in Photoshop for storage and they still hold up beautifully.But these jpegs are so INSANELY good that I may just leave it in jpeg for the most part and actually use the raw button for the occasional challenging shot. if its set for jpeg and you hit the raw button, it seems to shoot raw+jpeg rather than switching from one to the other. Also, write times are a non-issue with jpeg but a much bigger issue with raw and raw+jpeg - another reason to shoot jpeg more and raw less. And there still seems to be PLENTY of information in the jpegs to do B&W conversions with Silver Efex with plenty of latitude.
I'm sure it would be - and will be - clear to me if I had the camera in hand.I sometimes have the gridlines and level turned on and sometimes don't I'm using 1.5 second auto-review and leave my eye up to the OVF - which is the neatest trick I've ever seen when it automatically switches back and forth.
This is the only camera that I've ever even considered shooting jpg only, and I've never encountered another that produced such perfect, (and some of them ARE perfect) jpgs. This is one serious sensor.
Yeah, it WILL be! In the OVF (and evf and lcd, for that matter) you have options for what you see. You can add gridlines and/or you can add an automatic level (it lets you know when you're holding the camera level). Or you can leave all of that information out and just have a really clean looking finder.Appreciate it, Ray!
Can you explain this a bit more. I'm sure it would be - and will be - clear to me if I had the camera in hand.
Indeed. I've used some of the Pro Canons and Nikons which claim to (and are reputed) to have great jpgs. As a lot of the press guys use them for speed, its in their interest to make them as good as possible. However try as I might I never could get them looking as good as the raw conversions. Having the opposite problem with the Fuji is both helpful, in terms of saving battery life and speed of processing and disconcerting at the same time. Again its something this camera does that is unexpected, and different.Maybe this will turn out to be the one camera where the old adage "Shoot RAW, you fool!" will not necessarily hold true?!
I think there's a method to SOME of their madness (like having the ISO stick for each mode rather than stay with the ISO you're using as you switch between modes - most hate this but some seem to like it and I think either Canon or Nikon does it too). But even IF they assume that one type of photographer uses manual ISO and another type uses AUTO, there's STILL no reason to put them on different menus! And if they really thought that and this camera is intended for the more experienced photographer, why include an auto ISO at all? For aperture, the "auto" option is right there at the end of the aperture range, and for shutter speed its the same way. But not for ISO? Nah - that's just silly.There has to be a reason for splitting Auto ISO from the ISO selecter. Maybe Fuji think the two things ARE different. The rationale may be that (they think) Auto ISO is for one kind of photographer, whereas ISO selection is used by people who would never want to use Auto. However I think they are wrong with that. I switch between Auto ISO and ISO selection all the time on other cameras depending on what light I'm working with. However its a theory.
Sorry, that was me - should have ID'd myself...Things like the slow start-up and the battery meter, which someone said goes from full to depleted and shows nothing in between
OK, I set my AFL/AEL button to be what I thought was on for locking exposure...but I never saw any indication as to its being on...and it didn't appear to work. I just went back into "the wrench" menu and now have set it so that the AE-L AE/AF-Lock Mode to "AE & AF On/Off switch" (S) which I think makes it work, as opposed to "AE & AF on when pressing" (P) because now I can see an "EL" lit up on the screen, etc. In addition I set the AE/AF - Lock Button to AE-L. Does this all make sense to those of you who have this camera. I know it's a bunch of acronyms....but I'm trying to be as specific as I can be. Sometimes I don't think I do "camera speak" so well.The AEL/AFL button settings are pretty standard - on/off toggle or hold for on and then what does it lock - exposure or AF or both...
This sounds splendid Ray . . . but it's not my cup of tea, because although it's great for some situations it's not so good for others.This may not be everyone's favorite setup, but I've come to like it a lot. The only downside I've found is that the focus box doesn't turn green to verify focus in this mode, so you have to trust the camera a bit more. This can be a bit of an issue in low light or really close work, but you can always just use the manual focus and the magnifier in those situations to fine tune.