Travel Zimbabwe & South Africa 2022 travelogue-Image heavy!

Zeus1

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Location
Small town, near Antwerp and Ghent, Belgium.
Name
Hendrik Demey
I promised (remember @Irene McC?) to post a travelogue of our trip to Zimbabwe and South Africa in 2022, so here goes! This report will take several days to complete.


First, some genenal remarks. It was a family trip, including 2 parents and 2 twin daughters of 23 years. The purpose was to experience nature and animals in all aspects (so You won’t see pictures of local inhabitants, villages, towns, etc). There were 2 participants taking “real”photos, namely one daughter carrying the Olympus EM5 Mark II (and Pany 100-400mm) and myself with an EM1 Mark III (and Pany 100-300 mm). The others used their cell phones. Must confess that the Pany 100-300 performed better than I imagined under safari conditions; however focus is clearly slower than the 100-400 mm. The only time we unpacked a tripod was to try some pictures of the night sky.


Our trip fell into 2 parts: we started in Zimbabwe (Victoria Falls and a one day excursion to the Chobe river in Botswana followed by a short flight to Johannesburg in South Africa and the further with a rented car.


I was glad that we always were accompanied by a local tour operator while crossing borders ( a lot of paper work, from time to time the “small sum in hand” gift!). One tip: on entering Zimbabwe it is best to buy the visa onsite instead of having a printed copy of an e-Visa through the internet (ours was only accepted after a hefty “bakshish”).


The Victoria waterfalls are immense, You are unable to see them completely from the ground, You really need a helicopter flight. On ground You can only walk from viewpoint to viewpoint in order to see small to larger parts of teh falls, and in the meantime getting soaking wet (our walking shoes took 3 days of drying even after using the hair dryers in the bathroom).

Taken from our hotel room:

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A visit to the falls. You can rent rain wear when entering the park. Do it! Best to wear flip flops. Our cameras and lenses survived.

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Some more pictures from the Zimbabwe part of our trip. We did a sundowner cruise on the Zambezi, a Chobe river cruise (probably the best part of our 3 week trip: enormous amount of birds and animals), several game drives, and a bush walk on foot with an armed ranger (something You have to do: direct contact with nature, a discreet feeling of imminent danger, always a nice opportunity of a flat tire while en route).

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For our second part of the trip, we flew from Livingstone (in Zambia) to Johannesburg, where we picked up our rental car and started the car trip towards Kruger park.
We first re-visited the area of Blyde Canyon and stopped at the spots we couldn’t visit during our prior SA trip in 2019 (at that time, a strike closed the gates to several viewpoints).

Three Rondavels viewpoint with the Rondavels on the right and left the Blyde River canyon.

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Bourke's Luck Potholes.
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The Gorge Lift takes You down into a canyon and primeval rainforest.


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Overnight stay in the Hippo Hollow Estate.

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And then we started on our 4-day exploration of Kruger (Phabeni-Skukuza-Satara-Phalaborwa-Mopani-Letaba regions) while lodging twice in the park itself (rest camps at Skukuza and Satara) and in Phalaborwa (Sefapane Lodge). From the Sefapane Lodge we returned to Kruger to visis Mopani-Letaba and do another bush walk. These are just a sample of all the photos we took in Kruger.

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Leopard #1, carrying a warthog into the tree. Underneath already a hyena waiting for a small tidbit.
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Southern Ground Hornbill.
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Lots of hyena cubs.
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Leopard #2.
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Part 2 of Kruger pictures.

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Leopard #3, just after sun up sitting on the tarmac and waking up. This happened on our excursion to Mopani-Letaba with a guide. Of course the car stopped in order to look at the animal. He started walking towards us, even contemplating joining us in the car, circled around the car and lazily disappeared in the bush. During this episode (lasting 5-10 minutes) not a sound could be heard in our car (only the 4 of us present and a driver); the driver was standing up and filming everything.
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We finished our Kruger adventure with another bushwalk, a thing You have to experience.

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The following event was a cruise on the Olifantsrivier. Clearly inferior to the Chobe river cruise-wouldn’t recommend it, IMO not worth its money. Some crocodiles, lots of cormorants, some fish eagles.

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Our next stop was Tzaneen as an en route stop on our way to the Welgevonden Game Reserve. We stayed at the Tzaneen Country Lodge, a working farm/convention centre that had imported a few giraffes , antelopes and zebras. Nice, but nothing special.

From Tzaneen we went ziplining in the Magoebaskloof. Sorry, no pictures of us hanging unceremoniously from a wire. But very nice parcours and scenery (You zip over a canyon with a raging river). A bit further on in Haenertsburg we followed the Louis Changuion Nature Trail. "Historian and local resident Prof. Louis Changuion laid out the original trail in 1993. The trail meanders through the Haenertsburg Nature Reserve where the largest remaining portion of afromontane Woodbush Granite Grassland (WGG) is situated. This is one of the few surviving remnants of this magnificent vegetation type as most of the land has been converted to commercial forestry or agriculture. WGG is the only critically endangered vegetation type in all of Limpopo Province. Hikers are treated to many rare flora and fauna, patches of indigenous forest, small streams and scenic views.""

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On the Changuion Trail.

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Then we were off to Welgevonden Game Reserve, where there are several lodges catering to different public. We stayed 3 nights at the Mhondoro lodge. Due to the difficult terrain it is forbidden to drive Your own car, so we joined the organised game drives (twice daily). Most of the times, there was only our family in the car, just being lucky I guess. Welgevonden Game Reserve has several lion prides, a large amount of white rhinos (with uncut horns!), and the usual collection of elephants, zebras, antelopes and birds. Animal sighting were plentiful. Our driver/guide was very knowledgeable.
Sometimes these lodges have a waterhole with an underground hide. Useful to observe wildlife at knee-height!

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Our last stop in this 3-week trip was the Madikwe Game Reserve, bordering the south of Botswana. Again plenty of lodges available, we stayed at the Madikwe Safari Lodge. Again, self-drive impossible, only guided game drives (of a different kind: our guide frequently parked the car in the middle of nowhere, left us sitting for up to 30 minutes, and went off on foot to look for “spoor”). Very flat country with low bushes and lower animal density, therefore all the guides were in radio contact and signalled any sighting whereupon all cars congregated.

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And that's the end of our SA trip. Hope I didn't bore You. Next stop, who knows, Madagascar?
 
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